Peter
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Everything posted by Peter
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I don't think so. Plenty of very experienced cutters running big bars in the states, both stihls and huskys, and not trashing their saws in the process. Skip chain makes a big difference, but few people have ever used it in this country.
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Not sure thats the case any more Tom, the US saws are being strangled by EPA emissions regs too. Certainly more saw modding going on, but that doesnt account for Stihl recommendations. As for the trees being less hard, it is true there are a lot more and a lot bigger softwoods, especially on the west coast.
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Unless you were top roping from a high anchor point, then half hitch second.
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Partly different culture in the US, partly that skip and semi skip chain is much more widely used on bigger saws.
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Steel biner yes. Don't do it on heavy shock loading, ie butt hitching stem sections. Actually I try to avoid that altogether.
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No it isn't. It is loaded out of alignment, but that is not the same as cross loading.
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I have a long lanyard, and it is possible to use it like a short climbing line. But, the fact that in normal use it is connected to two seperate points on the harness doesnt change whether it is Ddrt or not. As for the cross loading issue, firstly cross loading is loading across the minor axis of a biner, so no, it is not cross loaded. Secondly, what you incorrectly refer to as cross loading is easily prevented with a short sling set as a friction hitch on the lanyard. Clip the biner into that and it keeps everything inligned nicely.
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Ropeman or Ropeman 2? Sure you already know about the shock loading issues with the Ropeman.
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That comment was specifically in relation to lanyards. (That is what the thread is about after all) Cinch does the job just fine. ART Positioner probably would too, but its not rated for single line use.
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Not exactly the lightest and most compact bit of kit. (Nor the cheapest) Would you seriously use one for a lanyard?
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Not as good as a hitch on 11mm plus line. However I have yet to find a hitch that works well on 10mm line, in both doubled and single line applications. So at the moment, its the best there is.
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10 mm min diameter for climbing lines and lanyards, as recommended by the AA guide to good climbing practice. I use liros 10mm with a cinch, as you can choke the end off and use it set srt style.
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Heres my stack for this winter.
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Or use your 020 instead of the lead weight.......
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If you tow a chipper you should use a tacho. Your exemption for only carrying tools ect falls down if you carry chip or logs. Therefore if you tow a chipper to site, fill the truck with chip or logs, and drive back towing the chipper you are breaking the law. I don't know how I can make it any clearer really.
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Do you never tow a chipper with a laden vehicle?
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And doesnt cover you for removing arisings/waste from site........
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Not that expensive, the stihl 48" bar is abour £290, the Cannon 50" is listed on Bennet's site at £286. Daresay the GB is quite pricey, but you get what you pay for.
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Stihl don't make a 48" suitable for a 660, but other manufactorers do. GB probably do one, try Rob Dyer T. 01590681259 [email protected] Or Cannon make a 50", try Doug Bennett 01822 618070 Milling with a long bar is a good way to kill a 660 though.
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You dont need a vice to use a toss wand. Nick's setup is very cool, but for the small amount of splicing I do, handheld is fine.
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You would need another winch to haul the cable up for you!
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I usually do the whole splice with the Toss wand on DB.
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I dont use the NE instructions for that, just the normal DB splice as per Samson instructions, and chop the second core off and throw it away. Much easier to bury, and it hasnt fallen apart and killed me yet, so I'm fairly optomistic.
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Nice one Tony, you big swot!
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If you dont find anywhere closer, this is 20 minutes from Huntingdon. £10 a tip for chip. AWO Bedford & Partners Recycling
