Safety question

[geoff]

As another member states, work positioning is everything.

 

I dont believe the chances of an accident increase the bigger the saw, more the opposite. It is easy to be careless and haphazard with a lighter machine.

 

Keep both hands on the saw the right way around in the correct orientation, keep the machine to the right of your body and look at what you are doing.

 

That will cut the chance of an injury down by at least 99%

 

Yep:thumbup1:

[Stubby]

Swapping chains every tank of fuel will be expensive ! Three strokes per cutter with a file would be better .

[agrimog]

little tickle with a file every fill up, and chain change at lunch if you want is fine, as for safety, get yourself at least a cs30(or new equivalent) and never work alone, a first aid course for both folk is money well spent(the one course you never want to need to use) treat the large saws with respect, never complaicency, and they'll be good to you, try to be clever,or stupid, and they're like a big dog, vicious when they bite........cut safe

[jomoco]

You guys notice how a hot chain files easier and sharper than a cold chain does?

 

Jomoco

[peatff]

You guys notice how a hot chain files easier and sharper than a cold chain does?

 

Jomoco

 

 

No, how hot are you getting the chain

[njtimber]

Thank you all for your replies and good advice. I always try and keep safety top of mind and keep my chain sharp (letting the saw do the work), swapping the chain after each tank of fuel. I have an Oregon bench grinder to maximise the sharpness of the chains I use and minimise the time it takes to sharpen them.

 

I am based in Ayrshire and have access to lots of mature hardwood trees. Haven't really spent much time with the 576 yet but will take it easy to start with. My plan is to use the 576 for felling and then cutting the larger rounds from the trunk and using the 550 for the branches and slimmer trunks.

 

My biggest concerns are the force of any kickback on a 576 as compared to my previous 345 and also the weight of it.

 

Thanks, John

 

Crosscutting is pretty straight forward, but felling larger hardwoods can be a bit more tricky ,assessing weight/lean etc deadwood/widow makers etc if you know some experienced cutters get as much information from them as possible about removing buttresses, bore cuts for leaners etc. And never work alone ,always have a first aid kit with large wound dressings ,hopefully you'll never need it. And a mobile phone for emergencies. As far as training goes it's good to have for a basic understanding of correct procedure and insurance purposes. The most important course you should attend is first aid. If your ever not sure about felling a particular tree ...walk away ...its stood there for years and a few more days until you get your head round it won't hurt. All the best nick

[Haironyourchest]

Speaking for myself, I found that going from a smaller saw to a much larger (55cc to 95cc) I become more methodical and steady in the work. The vibes and noise and raw power demands respect and I treat the saw like a live hand granade. That is until I become desensitised to the machine and start using it with confidence.

 

I think there are two forces at play.

 

1) A smaller saw gives the user a feeling of more control and therefore more confidence - confidence is good, but too much can lead to slack-arsedness. A very small saw can allow us to slip into bad working positions, overreaching, one handing, and so on.

 

2) A big saw can make us feel more vulnerable - this is good because it makes us more carful, but too much of this feeling can make us afraid and fear reduces our confidence and control as well.

 

- so really, there is a balance there somewhere where the most efficiency and safety is to be had. A small saw may not cause as much damage as a big saw, but does it make any difference when either is easily enough to kill and maim?

[Shane]

All good advice above.

Before you release the chain brake to start cutting just ask yourself...

What could possibly happen while I am making this cut?

If you are 100% certain that absolutely none of the possible eventualities could harm you or anybody else, then proceed with care.

If ANY possible outcome MIGHT cause a problem then you should look at another way of doing it. Repeat that process for every cut.

 

Keep safe and good on you for asking the question.

[johshaw]

Thank you all for your replies, very much appreciated. There is some very sound advice that I will adhere to. I really liked the advice that if you are not 100% sure about what will happen felling a tree, walk away and re-think. I spent some time on Sunday surveying trees to fell, mature Beech trees, and there were a few I wasn't comfortable with so won't be going anywhere near them. Thankfully I have hundreds to choose from.

 

The reason I change the chain after every tank of fuel is a friend of mine advised you always want your chain really sharp. I think that is good advice. I have an Oregon bench grinder so it takes only a few mins to sharpen a few chains.

 

Thanks, John

[Stubby]

Thank you all for your replies, very much appreciated. There is some very sound advice that I will adhere to. I really liked the advice that if you are not 100% sure about what will happen felling a tree, walk away and re-think. I spent some time on Sunday surveying trees to fell, mature Beech trees, and there were a few I wasn't comfortable with so won't be going anywhere near them. Thankfully I have hundreds to choose from.

 

The reason I change the chain after every tank of fuel is a friend of mine advised you always want your chain really sharp. I think that is good advice. I have an Oregon bench grinder so it takes only a few mins to sharpen a few chains.

 

Thanks, John

 

You do always want your chain to be " really sharp " and I don't think you can do better than a file . Even brand new chains could use a stroke per cutter . Learn to sharpen up with a file . Save money and have a " really sharp " chain .