Drying shed construction.

[MattyF]

Have been constructing a shed to dry my milled timber in , this is how far I have got ... I plan on putting an oak shingle roof on as it's free and won't cook like tin ,we busted up half a forwarding trailer of the most straightest oak I could find off the fire wood heap so hopefully have enough!

My question is how would you construct the sides? Would you leave the front open ? I plan on boarding up the west and east sides and using spaced York boards for the long side and have half of the front open... So York or closed boards and what positions would you use to get a consistent drying atmosphere ?

[se7enthdevil]

nice work there mate.

 

this sounds like a good timber drying shed if you have the space.

 

 

timber building | eBay

[MattyF]

That looks nice ! Loads of dry space for sure , mines more of a hobby than a full size industrial effort.. But would like it to do a good job of the timber and not mouldy or dry to fast, biggest problem is that area floods so the racks will have to start 2 -3ft from the ground

[ucoulddoit]

My question is how would you construct the sides? Would you leave the front open ? I plan on boarding up the west and east sides and using spaced York boards for the long side and have half of the front open... So York or closed boards and what positions would you use to get a consistent drying atmosphere ? [ATTACH]203861[/ATTACH]

 

Looks a useful sized drying shed. If you can, it's best to keep direct sun off stacks of drying timber to minimise the risk of exposed bits drying too quickly and splitting. I'm also building a drying shed and am leaving the northwest side open but this side is against a low retaining wall, so no good for access. On the southwest side, I'd planned to leave half of it open for access, but seeing how the prevailing wind blows the rain in and on dry days too much direct sun gets in, I'll put on hinged double doors, clad to match the walls. I was going to use Yorkshire cladding, but saw from a farming forum, concerns about the amount of rain that gets through the gaps, soaking the bedding straw. Probably less of a problem for a timber drying shed. I'm going to use overlapped vertical boarding, with a 10mm gap between the inner and outer boards to get plenty of air through but hopefully keep the rain out. Also leaving a gap round the bottom rather than building a low dado wall which was the original intention, again to get as much airflow as possible.

 

Andrew

[MattyF]

Sounds a good idea , I've noticed that in the log drying sheds we use that are Yorkshire clad but with logs they do get wet but lots of air flow is important as well with them.

With boards I suppose you want it a lot more stable... I guess open to the elements is not going to help either!

How will you achieve a 10mm gap Andrew on the vertical boards?

I think having a gap around the bottom will help also when it floods it won't create so much drag on the building.

[Rob D]

One idea for the sides is to have fine green mesh - allows gentle air through flow but stops rain etc getting all the outer boards... plus it's cheap.!

[ucoulddoit]

How will you achieve a 10mm gap Andrew on the vertical boards?

 

 

The photo below is a small trial section I put up last Autumn to see if any rain got through. It seems to have worked fine. There are blocks between the rails and outer boards. For the final job, I'll make the blocks a bit shorter so that any rain that gets through can drain away. But its going to be a real fiddle as there will be well over 500 blocks to cut and fit! I'm sure there would be an easier way to do the cladding, but I'm keen that it looks good as I struggled with the planning permission due to neighbour objections and have another project in the pipeline, so need to keep everyone happy.....

 

Andrew

[SteveA]

How will you achieve a 10mm gap Andrew on the vertical boards?

 

 

The photo below is a small trial section I put up last Autumn to see if any rain got through. It seems to have worked fine. There are blocks between the rails and outer boards. For the final job, I'll make the blocks a bit shorter so that any rain that gets through can drain away. But its going to be a real fiddle as there will be well over 500 blocks to cut and fit! I'm sure there would be an easier way to do the cladding, but I'm keen that it looks good as I struggled with the planning permission due to neighbour objections and have another project in the pipeline, so need to keep everyone happy.....

 

Andrew

 

That's a great solution for airflow. That style would also be useful for livestock buildings.

cheers, steve

[roys]

Instead of cutting lots of blocks why not just use something like a tile baton nailed or screwed horizontally top, bottom and maybe middle, with your vertical boards as is alternating on either side of the tile baton if you see what I mean.

Interesting thread.

[spudulike]

Looks better then your attempts at chainsaw maintenance - I often think that reminded me of a vicious Jack Russell having your wrist in its jaws and trying to shake it off - must have been the 346 springs:lol:

 

Nice job:thumbup: