Iroko worktop

[Rob D]

Any sort of cooking oils won't last on a worktop...

 

 

I would use something like a polyurethene varnish (have used Rustins in the past) and it goes off very hard indeed. Also Le Tonkinois - used this on tables used in a restuarant and this is also very hard wearing.

 

 

Just wondering if all the cooking oil originally applied has been got off - as this would react with any future treatments and may still be causing problems.

[Ian Leach]

As Rob said I find most cooking oils go rank after a while, I would use polyurethane varnish. I find le tonkis very good but can be a bit bitty but a light wet sand and recoat solved that for me. Is your sink sealed to the worktop.

[Copford sawmill sussex]

As Rob said I find most cooking oils go rank after a while, I would use polyurethane varnish. I find le tonkis very good but can be a bit bitty but a light wet sand and recoat solved that for me. Is your sink sealed to the worktop.

 

 

Yes it was mastic down. I will just sand it down gain completely poss use a white spirit to make sure no oil is left and yes a polyurethane seal seems to be the way forward.

 

Thanks all for the advise!! Social media working at it's best

[Woodworks]

Liberon finishing oil applied generously gives great protection but more gloss than some like. Did this on our walnut tops 5 years ago. The areas around the hob are still perfect but do now need to do some work on the main working area but 5 years with little care seems pretty good to me. Apparently the drying oils are not so very different from a poly oil just easier to apply but needs more coats to get the build.

[dirtybiker]

I had the same issue on an oak worktop! I then found out from a pro shop-fitter about a product called 'Sadolin PV-67'. This is a 2pack synthetic varnish made for pub counter tops and wooden floors. I've now used it loads of times and it's fantastic. Leaves a near bulletproof finish and being a chemical hardener finish you can get 3 coats on in and afternoon.

You must sand of all the old finish first but once done you'll never need to do it again.

Sadolin PV-67 instructions must be followed closely and use in a ventilated area as the chemical hardner gives of some potent fumes until it sets / drys ( about 30 mins)

PM me if you want to chat or need more details.

[Ghettoblaster]

Treatex worktop oil with their hardener!! Used it on a yew bar top for a bar/restaurant has been there a year and no rings or stains. Really amazing product. Halfway between an oil an a varnish. May need to knock it back between coats. 2 should be fine.

[bob]

Second osmo top oil. It's great

 

Third here

Have it on my table and coasters and red wine just wipes off

I did 3 coats ?

[Copford sawmill sussex]

I have had good results off my table with osmo but it just hasent worked on the worktop, trouble is it's a high traffic area as they say. I did pick up some pv67and I'll try it and I also have some solid elm flooring which I am going to try it on. Read some really good stuff on it earlier so watch this space

[Copford sawmill sussex]

Thanks for all the advice

[Commando]

Treatex worktop oil with their hardener!! Used it on a yew bar top for a bar/restaurant has been there a year and no rings or stains. Really amazing product. Halfway between an oil an a varnish. May need to knock it back between coats. 2 should be fine.

 

 

Not sure it will work on Iroko, I asked their tech dept and they advised not to try. But I have used it on our oak flooring and work tops and its a fantastic product and really easy to apply. Might be worth a test on a bit of scrap Iroko.