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Pollards, are they out of vogue in the UK?


Mick Dempsey
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The issue is that we generally use the term pollarding when lopping or topping mature trees. True pollarding definitely has its place and even lopping/topping can be pretty successful in certain circumstances. Willows for example..

 

From BS 3998.

 

7.10 Pollarding

If pollarding is to be carried out, it should preferably start soon after

the tree has become established and is between 25 mm to 50 mm in

diameter at the selected height of pollarding (often 2 m to 3 m). The

initial pollarding cut should be made at a height which reflects site

usage but which, if possible, allows some of the pre-existing foliage

to be retained, in order to maintain physiological function and thus

reduce the probability of dieback or death.

If the tree divides into a number of stems or branches below a height

of 3 m, these should be individually cut so as to initiate a “candelabra”

framework.

If the stem has attained a diameter of more than 50 mm, but less than

about 200 mm at 2 m to 3 m height, pollarding may still be initiated.

The tree should be cut at or near the same height as a younger tree,

but extra care should be taken to retain some existing branches. Larger

trees should not normally be treated in this way (see Annex C for severe

cutting for special purposes).

Once initiated, a pollard should be maintained by cutting the new

branches on a cyclical basis. The frequency of the cycle should be decided

according to site management objectives, species, age, condition and/or

any product that might be required. Selective cutting, whereby some of

the pollard branches are retained within each cycle, should be chosen if

this would help to prevent dieback and decay in the stem.

Branches that grow after pollarding should normally be cut at their

bases in order to encourage the formation of a knuckle after a number

of cycles. If, however, the pollard cycle has been allowed to lapse over

many years, the crown should instead be reduced (see 7.7) to the

minimum necessary to fulfil current objectives. These could include the

relief of any mechanical stress that would otherwise be likely to cause

the stem to split apart.

 

Even if the stress on an old pollard branch is severe, it should not be

cut back to the knuckle, since the removal of all its attached foliage

would probably lead to physiological dysfunction and decay. It should

instead be shortened by cutting just above a suitable lateral branch

[see Figure 2, R©], or failing that, by retaining a live stub from which

new shoots could grow.

If crown reduction would be insufficient to safeguard those branches

that are most likely to fail, they may be reduced to stubs in one

operation (a “pole thin”), while the remaining branches are shortened

so as to retain enough of the leaf-bearing twig structure to sustain

the tree.

NOTE Retention of live stubs on lapsed pollards will often help to reduce

the risk of serious dysfunction and hence decay and weakness developing

below the knuckles.

Cuts should be made below the knuckles only in exceptional

circumstances, e.g. to prevent catastrophic failure.

 

 

Reading that seems to suggest that if the pollarding cycle has lapses your best to crown thin and reduce.

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Yes, fodder. Being a carpenter, fodder doesn't appear on my limited radar.

 

I wonder if anyone uses it these days ?

Not entirely relevant but...

A few years back I was working o a willow and felled a large limb into a field full of cows.

Within minutes they were on it munching away.

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Depends on your interpretation of lapsed, 1/5/10/20 years? I've done all ages, they have all come back a treat.(talking of limes)

Tbh I don't see why this bs3998 should be revered as gospel.

 

Agreed:thumbup1:

 

Here in Brittany, oaks are pollarded for fire wood on a cycle that is around 20years.

I have had a succession of U.K climbers working for us who although very good at their jobs just cannot get their heads around the idea of pollarding quoting the issues with decay pockets, bad practices and other options available anything but pollarding as though this should never be done to a tree.

 

These are just trees after all, a resource to be exploited in this tradition of oak pollards and besides not every tree needs to be pretty and conform to the ideals of BS3998 in order to have it's place in the grand scheme of things.

Decay pockets and deep scarring left by decades of pollarding just add to the diversity of habitat within the tree.

The trunks of these oak pollards are next to useless for anything but firewood when their time comes and horrible knotty stuff it is too, I hate splitting it.

Ty

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Agreed:thumbup1:

 

Here in Brittany, oaks are pollarded for fire wood on a cycle that is around 20years.

I have had a succession of U.K climbers working for us who although very good at their jobs just cannot get their heads around the idea of pollarding quoting the issues with decay pockets, bad practices and other options available anything but pollarding as though this should never be done to a tree.

 

These are just trees after all, a resource to be exploited in this tradition of oak pollards and besides not every tree needs to be pretty and conform to the ideals of BS3998 in order to have it's place in the grand scheme of things.

Decay pockets and deep scarring left by decades of pollarding just add to the diversity of habitat within the tree.

The trunks of these oak pollards are next to useless for anything but firewood when their time comes and horrible knotty stuff it is too, I hate splitting it.

Ty

 

Be great to see some photos.

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