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is an industrial grinder a bit too big???


se7enthdevil
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what the hell are you turning if your constantly having to re-sharpen every few minutes,I used to production turn teak for a furniture company, and sharpen in the mornng, and a touch up at lunch time was all that was needed, and these were tools we had made ourselves, mabye time to look at your tooling, a change in tool material, or even a move to pcd inserted bit

back to slow wet grinders, APTC have a special on a 10" jet (same as tormek ) for £200. but only for next 12hrs, or web search, i've memory ofa self build flat wet system similar to the viceroy sharpedge, with attachments for gouges and suchlike

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what the hell are you turning if your constantly having to re-sharpen every few minutes,I used to production turn teak for a furniture company, and sharpen in the mornng, and a touch up at lunch time was all that was needed, and these were tools we had made ourselves, mabye time to look at your tooling, a change in tool material, or even a move to pcd inserted bit

back to slow wet grinders, APTC have a special on a 10" jet (same as tormek ) for £200. but only for next 12hrs, or web search, i've memory ofa self build flat wet system similar to the viceroy sharpedge, with attachments for gouges and suchlike

 

teak is easy with gouges and skews but there are some timbers that have a hell of alot more silica in them, or are just excellent at taking the edge of your chisel with the first touch.

 

afzelia is very harsh, acacia, marblewood, anigre, makore, monkeypuzzle(with hard knots), lignum vitae, goncalo alves, bulletwood, robinia, angelim vermelho, ekki and for some reason very dry rock hard ash is very blunting.

 

some woods you just would not believe how easily they can blunt.

 

i'll confess that the ones i'm referring to here are the old sorby ones, the newer hss tools are not such a problem. i do need some new chisels though, maybe in the new year.

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Oh and all my tools are Sorby apart from the hollowing tools and Steve is spot on some woods are like steel, but I bow to his knowledge of the names Lol.

 

i may know a fair bit but there are still plenty of timbers i get stumped on.

 

could the creusen do axes, knives billhooks and froes?

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I use mine for axe and knives, being slow speed it does not heat the steel unless you really go for it, really use it for turning tools only, very happy with it but that may be a personal preference, or I am just used to it. However a linisher would be a good option to.

 

S.

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For you seventh devil I reckon you need slow speed and precise control.

When I sharpen hand tool blades at the nursery I go to the ancient wolf twin wheel grinder in the back of the shed that gas a side shield missing and twirl that wheel round with my finger whilst using the other hand to hold the blade.

I reckon for such as yourself who sharpens often you could either mount a winding handle on the redundant stone end or set a drill up to run like a gear on the redundant wheel. Like the old bicycle dynamo. The narrower the drive wheel in the chuck the slower the speed. Less heat, less metal taken off.

Buy an old grinder of ebay or car boot.

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