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T540xp problems


Mark Bolam
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How do you tighten it again though?

The clutch drum isn't spinning freely, seems to engage some compression.

Every cut today needed a restart.

Chainbrake off, choke, pull, trigger, rev, cut, chain brake on (or not), high clip saw, cut out.

Not what you want on connies.

 

Definitely needs looking at then

 

As Billpierce says the clutch will tighten itself up, I never both to tighten them.

 

BUT....Make sure you put the bar and chain back on, start the saw up with the chain brake on and give it a few revs, then disengage chain brake rev it up and slap the chain brake on to tighten the clutch up.

 

Start it up with the sprocket cover off and watch how fast a clutch can whizz across the floor.:001_smile:

 

There isnt much worse than a top handle that wont idle!

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They seem fine.

I've had the clutch drum fly off twice when revving the saw without the cover on to check the oiling before.

Never did find all them needle bearings.

I'll not be doing that again.

 

clutch springs can just weaken, but look fine, but normally you will find you get chain creep on idle when this happens.

 

does it cut out on idle with no chain brake on?

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i usually tighten up clutches by hand then the saw tightens them when running no? i think that is why the are anti-normal threads on them so they don't unspin when you using.

 

maybs snap the chain brake on when its running - might tighten it up

 

also air ratchet works ok as long as your nor totally numb with it

 

Anti- normal thread ! Love it :biggrin: I suppose in the same way Bjorn Brog was an anti normal tennis player..:001_smile:

Edited by Stubby
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Have you removed the spark screen from the muffler?

Next will be to remove the muffler and check for coking around the port and general damage to the piston.

If all looks fine there, then you'll need to work from the intake end, have a dealer reset and update the carb, check fuel lines, intake boot, etc, you know the drill, you've been a member on here long enough!

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I am wondering if you are seeing what I have had on 357XPs. Sometimes you don't mesh the oiler worm drive pinion with the clutch drum correctly causing the clutch drum to not spin correctly.

 

I have also seen freshly rebuilt saws partially spin their clutch off and then they do up again once wood is cut or the brake applied but the mesh between the worm pinion and drum has been lost and it buggers up the oiler pinion worm outer where it meshes when it does up again making the clutch drum tight and stops the saw idling.

 

I would check the part of the oiler pinion where the clutch drum slides in to it - chances are it is mullered!

 

How difficult can it be:lol: Sometimes it is just down to lack of experience. Personally I always tighten clutches up as it stops them flying off and the 357 incident was an interesting one that really pissed me off:001_rolleyes::thumbdown: You cant always guarantee the owner isn't going to fire up a saw without a bar fitted!

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Have you removed the spark screen from the muffler?

Next will be to remove the muffler and check for coking around the port and general damage to the piston.

If all looks fine there, then you'll need to work from the intake end, have a dealer reset and update the carb, check fuel lines, intake boot, etc, you know the drill, you've been a member on here long enough!

 

 

Thanks Eddy.

 

I do know the drill.

I've checked the forum rules and I'm meant to slag off Huskys for the next couple of years and bang on about how great Stihl 201s are....

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