Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

First chainsaw


Plwm
 Share

Recommended Posts

Do you agree that with a quick pro saw in inexperienced hands any mistake could have devastating results. A smaller slower less powerful saw would be more controllable and safer for a novice operator.

 

I don't agree with that . If your first saw is a quick pro saw you don't know any different . With a slow saw you might have to chase a cut through and it not be up to it with " devastating results " :001_smile:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Log in or register to remove this advert

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I don't agree with that . If your first saw is a quick pro saw you don't know any different . With a slow saw you might have to chase a cut through and it not be up to it with " devastating results " :001_smile:

 

I was thinking more of kickback being a lot more violent and less controllable with the extra weight and speed. A problem perhaps if his technique is not good.

 

I agree though that power can have advantages especially on a tricky fell.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think people post here because they want something a little better than a B&Q or Chinese (not so) special. A 171 / 135 is going to get the job done well. However there are other brands Echo/Dolmar that punch above their weight worth considering.

 

I've always considered that 'buy cheap - buy twice'. For example we bought a washing machine 29 years ago for £800 (OMG) which still runs daily - thats amazing value. Sometimes it makes sense to pitch your sights a little higher - who knows how much use your saw may get?

 

People in this forum have a passion for what they do, when something works year after year, rain or shine in arduous conditions, you break it & learn how to fix it, hopefully spares are available - you come to cherish & respect it - my ancient 260 that refuses to die, for example.

However, both mainstream brands produce good, bad & excellent saws.

 

My first instruction - 'there you go laddie, nay cutting wi the tip or ye'll hae yer heed off'.

 

Good luck whatever you get, as previously stated - they all cut wood.

 

 

N

Edited by NFG
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi, many thanks for all the replies.

 

As with any forum I use everyone has their own thoughts and preferences and you have to take them all on their own merit.

 

As stated in my OP my local 'farm machinery' type outlets were both Stihl dealers (couldn't locate the Husky one) so I was leaning towards that brand. I buy loads of stuff off the 'net but some things I like to get local should any problems occur so my brands were limited.

 

As such I picked up a saw today - a Stihl MS211. A bit more £ than I planned to spend initially but sometimes it's better to stretch the budget and get something that'll cope with any potential future needs or be abetter product from the start...

 

Got the necessary PPE before the saw to save any temptation of cutting my leg off! :-)

 

As for Cs30/31? - looking at what it covers much of it appears to be common sense and I could work out for myself; the instruction in the assessing and felling of trees bit would be useful though, I agree. It's unlikely that I'll spend an extra £500+ on this course. A day spent assisting a local would be far more beneficial if anyone wants some free labour?!?

 

Many thanks again for your contributions

 

Neil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The OP is asking for advice to SUIT HIS NEEDS, this is a chainsaw forum btw, how many 'arbs' can repair equipment or modify them to the level that spud can? There's also a homeowner forum, log burning, milling and competitive climbing forum.

The OP is not a professional, therefore doesn't require professional courses or equipment.

 

 

Yes everything is Arb related there's a homeowner thread.

Going off on one when I'm simply advising the bloke to get a bit of training so he doesn't cut himself and learns how to look after his investment properly.

lol

It's advice he didn't have to follow it through he's obviously looked into it he thinks it's not necessary that's his opinion I'm glad he looked into it he's decided most of its common sense. I'm not going to argue that out like I think he's doing something wrong that's up to him.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Joe - if not supermarket petrol what alternative? And why?

Woodcrafter - I'd happily do a course if the cost was less, I accept that the cost is less than losing a leg etc but at the moment it's not financially viable. Pity there aren't a few shorter/cheaper/individual courses on just maintenance / crosscutting / felling etc that would cater for the homeowner wanting training rather than those using a saw in a workplace environment.

 

Thanks for everyones comments anyway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Joe - if not supermarket petrol what alternative? And why?

Woodcrafter - I'd happily do a course if the cost was less, I accept that the cost is less than losing a leg etc but at the moment it's not financially viable. Pity there aren't a few shorter/cheaper/individual courses on just maintenance / crosscutting / felling etc that would cater for the homeowner wanting training rather than those using a saw in a workplace environment.

 

Thanks for everyones comments anyway.

 

Super market fuel is likely to contain a higher percentage of Ethanol . Ethanol is not good for engines especially small air cooled engines .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The ethanol in supermarket fuel degrades rubber fuel lines and seals slightly quicker, however if you're only using the saw infrequently it'll take years to have any negative effects and even then it will only be the cost of a new fuel line or carb kit you might need. If you're not going to use the saw for more than a month or two you should drain the tank and run it dry as pump petrol doesn't last much longer than that without additives.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Joe - if not supermarket petrol what alternative? And why?

Woodcrafter - I'd happily do a course if the cost was less, I accept that the cost is less than losing a leg etc but at the moment it's not financially viable. Pity there aren't a few shorter/cheaper/individual courses on just maintenance / crosscutting / felling etc that would cater for the homeowner wanting training rather than those using a saw in a workplace environment.

 

Thanks for everyones comments anyway.

 

Might be worth looking into this as Myerscough College up our way do a Saturday "landowner" type 1 day course that is aimed keeping all your arms and legs attached :thumbup: rather than providing qualifications.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


  •  

  • Featured Adverts

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.