Pricing big Elm

[Marc]

i found with the 5 foot bar you have to genly rest the nose of the bar on the top of the piece of wood your cutting and gently feed the bar and saw in towards the piece of timber . as for felling with it i really can not see any point at all . as you said alot of people dont realise that using a supper size saw is totally diferent to using the likes of the 660 with 30 inch bar . great tips as well andy

 

I swear your obsessed with ms880 it seems nearly every post you make your harping on about it, hats of to you though i've done some fairly big trees yet the 880 is hardly used apart from the real biggies prefering to go for a 660 with 35" bar on most large trees.

 

Gerry was knocking out tops on big Seqouias with an 090 before most of us even started our careers in arb he had no such problems with chains falling off can't remember what his technique was.

 

What i do and a climber i work with does when in the tree is use a smaller saw first to create a lip this is good for 2 reasons first you can accuratly line up your back cut with a small bar easier, and safer as you have something to rest the bar in to begin your cut.

[Stephen Blair]

nice one andy, very rarely i do anything with an 88 except cross cut windlown stuff. but years ago i did a lot of roadside oaks, the bar was 36inch, it was always choking up. i was felling above fence line, so it was a struggle for me to hold the saw so high tbh. i wish i knew that little tip back then mate

[combined tree services]

I swear your obsessed with ms880 it seems nearly every post you make your harping on about it, hats of to you though i've done some fairly big trees yet the 880 is hardly used apart from the real biggies prefering to go for a 660 with 35" bar on most large trees.

 

Gerry was knocking out tops on big Seqouias with an 090 before most of us even started our careers in arb he had no such problems with chains falling off can't remember what his technique was.

 

What i do and a climber i work with does when in the tree is use a smaller saw first to create a lip this is good for 2 reasons first you can accuratly line up your back cut with a small bar easier, and safer as you have something to rest the bar in to begin your cut.

 

nope not obsessed at all mate as for nearly every post a make being about them i guess it depends on which posts your looking at !!! my refrence to chains comming off was regarding the 5 foot bar !!

 

as i have previously said , i prefer to use larger saws with bars that do not put too much stress on the unit its self! my 880 is running a 30 inch bar alot of the time but i have the 46 inch bar for the bigger trees . when in a tree i tend to use a smaller saw such as my 288 xp (which im replacing but not sure what with yet) .

[Mesterh]

i personally hate blowers full stop . they are great if used properly but normally the average groundy will pick it up insted of using the clean up gear and blow the mess to another area

 

Yeah thats what you do with blowers, straight into the shrub beds etc

 

If it all needs ringing up to manageable sizes then I would be upping 'my' price from £1200 to £1500. Looks like a lot of cross cutting there!

[Marc]

nope not obsessed at all mate as for nearly every post a make being about them i guess it depends on which posts your looking at !!! my refrence to chains comming off was regarding the 5 foot bar !!

 

as i have previously said , i prefer to use larger saws with bars that do not put too much stress on the unit its self! my 880 is running a 30 inch bar alot of the time but i have the 46 inch bar for the bigger trees . when in a tree i tend to use a smaller saw such as my 288 xp (which im replacing but not sure what with yet) .

 

I'm only ribbing ya mate:001_tt2: personally i hate chainsaws, there just a means to cut wood for me a nessecity of the job and nothing else, as for an 88/84 no matter what size bar i'll go to great lengths not to use one god awfull saws especilly for ringing up big timber. Then again i'ld do anything to avoid ringing up big timber it just sucks.

[Mr Ed]

Then again i'ld do anything to avoid ringing up big timber it just sucks.

 

Ditto to that. As far as I'm concerned, its a waste of time, energy and wood.

[combined tree services]

I'm only ribbing ya mate:001_tt2: personally i hate chainsaws, there just a means to cut wood for me a nessecity of the job and nothing else, as for an 88/84 no matter what size bar i'll go to great lengths not to use one god awfull saws especilly for ringing up big timber. Then again i'ld do anything to avoid ringing up big timber it just sucks.

 

lol its about time silky made something much bigger than a sugoi then i personally woul rather not use saws that size up in trees , it takes the joy out of the job IMO:001_huh:

[Meep]

£1920 + VAT

 

3 man crew two days (leaving the site nice and tidy)

[gibbon]

£1920 + VAT

 

3 man crew two days (leaving the site nice and tidy)

 

You wouldn't win any work down here with those rates. I'd love to charge that

[Highland Forestry]

Blimey!

I go away for the day and when I get back everyone has gone crazy on the pricing elm thread..

I've put in my price for the job - I'll wait to find out wether we get it or not first but i'll let you all know what I put on it.

Most of it in the crown i'll get with my 281 XP which has a 2ft bar and will be fine for lumping down, and then we'll fell the stem with the 088 - I want to avoid using the 088 up the tree if possible.

We've put two days on the job, removal of chip from site and timber left in lengths for the estate to deal with.. and extra charge if it's to be ringed up... it's elm after all, not the easiest stuff to cut in the first place.

 

Had considered using a mewp but I dont have a ticket for one and so couldnt use it on the job.. the other idea was to bash the thing down in one day and use a crane, but it would just be an excuse to get a crane in really and would fairly eat away at the profits.. it wouldnt be essential so I dont want to cut my nose off to spite my face.