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Leveraxe??


rovers90
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Mine is a Gransfors Bruks, which is fab - nice and light enough for one handed if I need to, but really really good.

 

I use the lazy tyre solution - have a tyre sitting on top of a wide splitting round, lazy because I have not screwed the tyre to the splitting round.

 

Splitting logs is really quick; I noticed a MASSIVE difference when I just split a load of rounds which have been sitting since March (my wife died in April so I did not get to them) - and the ones which were in a pile in the open (on pallets) were easy peasy, and the ones which had rolled into the cover of the wood bays were rock hard - that little bit more dried out, and tightened up into a load of rocks.

 

My view:

* use a standard splitting maul;

* if you have £75 to spend, use a Gransfors Bruks because it feels lovely;

* if you have more than that, just give the rest to me;

* split your logs wet, or at least do not let them dry out until you have split them

* if the log is too tough to split, chunk off the easy bits, and leave the rest, and use that as a large piece to put on at the end of the evening

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It looks nice and light, wonder if its much lighter then an x27?

It looks as though it is designed specifically for small diameter/straight grained Scandinavian softwood and birch timber. I bet on that kind of timber it is a lot faster then a conventional axe as there is no blade sticking resistance on the back draw, and the lightness of the axe combined with the reduced fiction makes the whole physical effort more efficient.

 

The likes of an x27 for example with deal with both the rough and easy. It is a good cross over splitting device. A 3kg maul will take on the ugliest elm and mature beech rings and eventually win, but you wont swing that all day long with nice Scandinavian timber.

Edited by rowan lee
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Mine is a Gransfors Bruks, which is fab - nice and light enough for one handed if I need to, but really really good.

 

I use the lazy tyre solution - have a tyre sitting on top of a wide splitting round, lazy because I have not screwed the tyre to the splitting round.

 

Splitting logs is really quick; I noticed a MASSIVE difference when I just split a load of rounds which have been sitting since March (my wife died in April so I did not get to them) - and the ones which were in a pile in the open (on pallets) were easy peasy, and the ones which had rolled into the cover of the wood bays were rock hard - that little bit more dried out, and tightened up into a load of rocks.

 

My view:

* use a standard splitting maul;

* if you have £75 to spend, use a Gransfors Bruks because it feels lovely;

* if you have more than that, just give the rest to me;

* split your logs wet, or at least do not let them dry out until you have split them

* if the log is too tough to split, chunk off the easy bits, and leave the rest, and use that as a large piece to put on at the end of the evening

 

HI MARTIN can you tell me were your from in somerset then mate have you maul axe thanks jon

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It looks as though it is designed specifically for small diameter/straight grained Scandinavian softwood and birch timber. I bet on that kind of timber it is a lot faster then a conventional axe as there is no blade sticking resistance on the back draw, and the lightness of the axe combined with the reduced fiction makes the whole physical effort more efficient.

Exactly this.

 

I have one, and it's a joy to use in straight grained stuff, even big rings.

It never gets stuck and is much lighter than my Wetterlings splitting maul.

The splitting maul is now reserved for ugly knotty stuff.

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  • 2 weeks later...

There was somedisussion on the Vipukirves Leveraxe some time ago on the Bodgers' forum.

https://www.bodgers.org.uk/bb/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2838&p=24872&hilit=leveraxe#p24872

The debate was inconclusive, but featured a lot of Youtube links from the inventor himself. He is adamant the the Leveraxe will cope with knotty wood and also hard-to-split species like elm.

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