Greemech 220

[Mountain man]

Machine

[carlos]

we have the pto version of your machine, id buy a new set of blades then get old ones resharpend, we turn ours every now and then and often they dont look too bad but chip way better with fresh edge, not a great photo but yours look very worn, i touched up our rollers gently with a angle grinder and i think it made a bit of difference.

good luck with it, our one at work has had a good bit of use without too much hassle.

carl

[monkeybusiness]

I'd sort the anvil gap first and chuck a new set of blades at it - the gap should be 1-2 mm I think (hacksaw blade thickness is a good rule of thumb). I'm not sure if you can adjust the anvil on the 220 (you could on the older 202, but the gap is adjusted by moving the flywheel on the newer Greenmech models). PeteB is your man for info, or ring gm themselves and speak to Mac or Jason (but they might be closed for Xmas now). Is there a removable plate above the roller box (ie between the rollers and flywheel)? If so remove it and see if the rear flywheel bearing carrier is accessible. There should be a 19mm head bolt in the centre that needs to be present and tight as it locks the flywheel in position in relation to the anvil (if the 220 shares a similar setup to a 1928).

[Mountain man]

Ok I'll check that out, I think a new anvil and blades will do the job, I dont think the rollers are too bad, the stock fencing I've just found wrapped round the side of the top roller wasn't helping either.

Although it does give an idea of what this machine has been through!

She just needs a bit of care, and it'll be awesome again.

[PeteB]

Give us the serial number and when they office is open, I should be able to tell you a few more details. Get some new blades and fit new vertical and horizontal shear bars and check for end float in the bearings as the gasp does seem excessive. I could be persuaded to pop by and give it a once over for you if needed.

[Ian C]

Good machine that, put some new blades and an anvil on it and a grease up and it will last many years.

[Tom D]

The anvil gap should be about 1mm I would say. Doesn't look too bad a machine, but those knives are dull. You'll notice a difference with some sharp ones.

[Mountain man]

Give us the serial number and when they office is open, I should be able to tell you a few more details. Get some new blades and fit new vertical and horizontal shear bars and check for end float in the bearings as the gasp does seem excessive. I could be persuaded to pop by and give it a once over for you if needed.

 

Pm sent

[TimberCutterDartmoor]

I've hired one of them; towed nicely and chipped good - plenty of grunt and threw the chip far and wide lol. Better than a 1928 imo.

[Ropechucka]

Okey dokey, well I bought that one from lancashire, fired her up in the workshop, everything seemed ok, nice engine, started well, the guys who had it knew very little about it, they were ag engineers. Wheel span nicely on its bearings. Strange way of engaging the drive, you sort of drop the engine. They assured me the stress control worked. It was pissing it down outside, they seemed straight so I paid up and took it away.

 

Got it home and put some wood through it...uh oh! Hopeless it would just push bigger wood against the wheel not chipping at all, small stuff was ok, and yes, at one point the stress control kicked in.

 

So no panic, it was a good price, I'm reasonably handy so if I have to throw a few quid at it, it's not the end of the world, and I still have the TW for the moment.

 

Some questions and pictures for you GM aficionados to peruse.

 

1. The blades. Here they are, you couldn't cut yourself with them, not mullered just well blunt. Are they really that bad? Would blades like that cause such a complete collapse of chipping ?

 

2. The anvil. Opinions please, the disc blades were a good 6mm away, seems a lot even for a machine of this power.

 

3. Rollers, few dinks for sure, worth forking out for new though?

 

BTW. It's a 2007 chip master 220 with an Isuzu engine of 50 or 55 hp.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Ps I'll have to lad the photos separately, my iPad won't do multiples.

 

 

Before you alter anvil position etc check that the discs have been sharpened properly, I know of a company ( won't mention names) that carry out re grinds, instead of grinding the angled edge down to sharpen they were grinding off the flat face until the disc was sharp but resulting In the disc becoming thinner. So three re grinds for instance could take 4/5mm off the thickness hence the 6mm gap you now have. You may find that when you put a new disc In the machine the gap is spot on.

Hope this helps