Heat transfer

[Mull]

I think inline fan is maybe too fast and cooling the air as it shifts it! Bigger dia ducting and a slower fan might be better, but I'm no expert, obviously!!! all I know is kitchen is like an oven and sitting room like a fridge!![/quote

 

Half right. Bigger diameter duct but with a fast fan. Air flow and difference in temp between the two rooms is key.

 

I have used this principle to cool an insulated light room by venting the unwanted heat. It depends on how much heat you want to shift but the principle is sound.

 

One thing to consider is if you duct air away it needs to be replaced, additionally putting air into a room means some air needs to go.Therefore a duct in both directions might be an advantage.

 

Alternatively open the door?

 

 

Open the door? Why did that not occur to me???😃👍

[mendiplogs]

Aarrow Stratford Jon, stove is excellent, think rads are a bit small maybe! Was getting tightfisted by that stage of the build.😀

 

HI MULL arrow max heat power 10kw out to room that should good on a newish house like yours we are running 16kw to room larger room too but much older house we look at loads of stoves before getting a euro heat theres loads of stove out there the say mad high KW and when you look at the size of fire box it a joke now were near what they say thanks jon

[mendiplogs]

 

 

Open the door? Why did that not occur to me???😃👍

 

HI MULL you should not have to do this mull we had this on our last stove as it was just not up to the job I've seen some stoves out there and i think to my self theres no way a stove going to power the size of room thanks jon

[ArthurBottlesworth]

I bought book about this yearsago at centre of alternative technology

 

The book argued that pumping hot air was cheaper than pumping water

Book was " borrwed" and not returned but there isat least one book about how to do this

 

Nearly bought farmhouse with vents in the floor to let Hot air up into the bedrooms - they were just hinged flaps in the floorboards -

[mendiplogs]

I bought book about this yearsago at centre of alternative technology

 

The book argued that pumping hot air was cheaper than pumping water

Book was " borrwed" and not returned but there isat least one book about how to do this

 

Nearly bought farmhouse with vents in the floor to let Hot air up into the bedrooms - they were just hinged flaps in the floorboards -

 

HI ARTHUR i was thinking of this mate thanks jon

[cornish wood burner]

 

 

Open the door? Why did that not occur to me???😃👍

 

We wouldn't be being sarcastic would we?

Anyway it is an easy calculation to make but from memory if you want to move say a 1 kw from a room 10 deg hotter than the other then you need to move a few hundred cubic metres an hour. Fans normally have their output as part of their spec. A bathroom extractor for example might move around 100 cube an hour but it was a while ago now so don't take this as gospel.

[Mull]

 

 

 

We wouldn't be being sarcastic would we?

 

Anyway it is an easy calculation to make but from memory if you want to move say a 1 kw from a room 10 deg hotter than the other then you need to move a few hundred cubic metres an hour. Fans normally have their output as part of their spec. A bathroom extractor for example might move around 100 cube an hour but it was a while ago now so don't take this as gospel.

 

 

Maybe a tad!👍

The calculation might be easy, but as usual, putting it into practice seldom is. A big part of my issue is the ventilation required by building regs ( soffit vents, block work vents, air bricks) all this on a very exposed site. Fine in summer.

Time to get the silicone out!

[Fredward]

They have been popular over here since the 70's (or so I'm told), but the house layout's are more basic, being as most houses are single storey. You can get a kit to heat 3 rooms for about 500 quid. They are quite effective but they really need:

 

- High flow rate pump

- Quiet pump

- Suspended in ceiling on wires i.e not fixed to rafters as too much vibration

- WELL insulated ducting.

 

I think the insulation, ducting size, and fn size are all key factors to making it work. If the air doesn't move fast enough it's cold by the time it gets there, especially in a cold attic. Also don't put the thermostat/intake too close to the fire as it will draw all the heat out before the room is hot. And the outlet vents want to be as far away from the door as possible, then leave doors slightly open to encourage circulation. We put in a wood burner last summer and after one winter sweating in the lounge we plan on putting one in this year.

[wrsni]

What really surprised me about the Burley when we fitted it a year ago was just how well the heat spread throughout the house.

 

OK, the room it was going in had double doors (which we have since removed completely) which opened in to a central hallway, so there was always the potential to distribute the heat out a bit, but I was still very pleased with just how well it done it. No fans, no ducts, nothing.

 

The existing central heating is essentially obsolete.

[teepeeat]

I think inline fan is maybe too fast and cooling the air as it shifts it! Bigger dia ducting and a slower fan might be better, but I'm no expert, obviously!!! all I know is kitchen is like an oven and sitting room like a fridge!!

 

yes, would have thought low speed fan shifting larger volume in a bigger duct would be better