JotulF3 CB woodburner issue

[timjmac]

Having run a Jotul stove for the last 20 years I have nothing but admiration for them.

On the No3 which I have ,the side plates back plate and top baffle all require replacing every few years, they protect the cast iron outside of the stove.

[Alycidon]

I should also mention, that when I had the stove apart. I also noticed that the back cast plate in the fire box is warped like a banana and a crack in the middle. I just hope that it is not going to move any more ?

The stove has cast sides all around which I thought would soak up the heat Mediplogs, the house is very old (300 yrs) and the room in which it is situated is 20ft x 15ft .Ceiling 8ft. Would a stainless steel plate cope with the heat ouput ?

cheers ,med.

 

I dont sell Jotul but the models I have looked at and serviced have been well made. Not seen any of the newer ones though.

 

The problems you have scream over firing. No stove manufacturer covers any parts in direct contact with the fire such as fire bricks, grate, baffle plate, you were lucky to get a replacement FOC from JOTUL. The usual cause is smokeless fuel brands which are petroleum based. Burning small pieces of very dry hardwood such as joinery offcuts can also lead to the same issue but generally over a longer period of time. Stove thermometers are pretty inaccurate guides, I had a couple on a stove on Saturday, side by side they read 100 degrees F different.

 

Some manufacturers are moving from cast baffle plates to vermiculite which does crack in service, i suspect cost is driving that one.

 

Esse use what appears to be a pretty thin stainless steel baffle plate in their top selling 100 range, never had one fail yet.

 

Cast iron baffle plates do warp and burn through, last one I changed I had to angle grind it out. Vermiculite has its shortcomings yes but its generally better. The new high end Morso's and Nordpies have man made baffle plates that look in the Morso like dark vermiculite and the Nordpies like concrete, these are impervious to cracking.

 

A

[MATTMOSS]

The reason the baffle plate is burning through is because you are allowing ash to build up on top.

This builds more heat in the metal and they burn through, every now and again make sure ash and debris are not building up on the top of the plate.

 

The same goes for the grates the fire sits on in multi burners, if you never empty the ash pan and leave the ash to build up to the fire, the grate will burn out in no time.

Regards mm

[spudulike]

I have a Burley stove and the top naffel plate lasted 2 winters . Was 1.0mm steel . They wanted £86 for a new one . I made my own out of 3.0mm stainless . luckily it easy peasy lemon squeezy to fit .

 

Did the same with my stovax - 3mm steel plate off ebay, angle grinder, drill, bench vice and big hammer - the original part did last 10 years but a new one at £95:thumbdown:

 

My version - £10:thumbup:

[spudulike]

The reason the baffle plate is burning through is because you are allowing ash to build up on top.

This builds more heat in the metal and they burn through, every now and again make sure ash and debris are not building up on the top of the plate.

 

The same goes for the grates the fire sits on in multi burners, if you never empty the ash pan and leave the ash to build up to the fire, the grate will burn out in no time.

Regards mm

 

Very true, the wife took over loading the stove up when she went self employed, I forgot to tell her to check the second baffle and it went in a similar way due to this!

[mendiplogs]

I should also mention, that when I had the stove apart. I also noticed that the back cast plate in the fire box is warped like a banana and a crack in the middle. I just hope that it is not going to move any more ?

The stove has cast sides all around which I thought would soak up the heat Mediplogs, the house is very old (300 yrs) and the room in which it is situated is 20ft x 15ft .Ceiling 8ft. Would a stainless steel plate cope with the heat ouput ?

cheers ,med.

 

HI MATE we run a 16kw plus euro heat stove in a room little larger then and it great whats the kw of stove thanks jon

[peatff]

Our Hunter Hawk is only a little stove but the baffle plate is a generous 5mm thick and hasn't warped in 12 years of use. The fire bricks are still the originals as well but I am thinking of getting some to make my own as the later fires use taller ones which insulate the sides of the firebox more.

[medroberts]

The rated output of the stove is 6KW. For the record I have never burnt a lump of coal smokeless or not. The only fuel it has had is well seasoned hardwoods e.g oak,elm,sycamore,beech etc..(as recommended in user manual). :thumbup:

I thought the idea of a logburner , was to give heat output but didn't realise that they must not get too HOT:sneaky2:. All seals are in good order (leak tested with paper). Chimmney sweep commented that the chimney was very clean for a woodstove. Are Morso better quality, paid extra thinking jotul were the best !

[Dean Lofthouse]

The reason the baffle plate is burning through is because you are allowing ash to build up on top.

This builds more heat in the metal and they burn through, every now and again make sure ash and debris are not building up on the top of the plate.

 

The same goes for the grates the fire sits on in multi burners, if you never empty the ash pan and leave the ash to build up to the fire, the grate will burn out in no time.

Regards mm

 

Good man !

 

I now can see why my baffle plate has done just that

[medroberts]

Just to explain, if you take a look at my pic in opening post. The part in the pic is upside down. The plate with the air holes faces the fire/heat. The top plate is made of cast and is a good thickness. What my gripe is why is the lower plate (taking all the heat) so THIN. In order to clean any ash from the top of this , I would have to remove stove , top and then unbolt the two halves. Totally impractical:confused1: I dont see ash sitting on top of this as it is enclosed ie air wash box. Hope this makes sense:confused1: