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Burley fireball stove


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My dad got a Burley Debdale 9104 and it's PITA. Thought he was just being fussy so went round to have a look. Had some lovely dry softwood on it and if the door was shut it just went to sleep. It's OK with an endless supply of kindling but chuck some logs on and sometimes it does not want to play. Any suggestions on how to get this stove working properly as it's going to have go if they cant get it working properly all the time. They had no problems before with a bigger Woodwarm but they needed a smaller stove due to improved insulation.

 

Thanks :001_smile:

 

At the end of the day it's just like an engine, needs a good supply of air in and a good exhaust out.

 

I'd start there, but it sounds like there's something seriously amiss.

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At the end of the day it's just like an engine, needs a good supply of air in and a good exhaust out.

 

I'd start there, but it sounds like there's something seriously amiss.

 

The chimney should be OK. They had it swept and inspected before install and they said it was fine and good condition. It draws fine with the door open when lighting but it's after this that it's temperamental.

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My dad got a Burley Debdale 9104 and it's PITA. Thought he was just being fussy so went round to have a look. Had some lovely dry softwood on it and if the door was shut it just went to sleep. It's OK with an endless supply of kindling but chuck some logs on and sometimes it does not want to play. Any suggestions on how to get this stove working properly as it's going to have go if they cant get it working properly all the time. They had no problems before with a bigger Woodwarm but they needed a smaller stove due to improved insulation.

 

Thanks :001_smile:

 

Suspect its a pressure issue if the flue is clear, has anyone done a flue draft test, thats the first step.

 

If the room is effectively airtight the air pressure within the room can be below that at the top of the flue thus overcoming the natural pull from the flue. Fitting a direct air kit would alleviate this and is always recommended providing the stove is on an outside wall.

 

A

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Suspect its a pressure issue if the flue is clear, has anyone done a flue draft test, thats the first step.

 

If the room is effectively airtight the air pressure within the room can be below that at the top of the flue thus overcoming the natural pull from the flue. Fitting a direct air kit would alleviate this and is always recommended providing the stove is on an outside wall.

 

A

 

Also it is pulling cold air from the outside instead of warm air from inside. Any warm air from inside will need to be replaced by colder air from outside!

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Suspect its a pressure issue if the flue is clear, has anyone done a flue draft test, thats the first step.

 

If the room is effectively airtight the air pressure within the room can be below that at the top of the flue thus overcoming the natural pull from the flue. Fitting a direct air kit would alleviate this and is always recommended providing the stove is on an outside wall.

 

A

 

This is interesting. When the installer did the draft test he suggested they needed a hole in wall to improve draught. This was surprising as they have had two stoves previously both larger and neither had any draw problems. Dad had a chat with Burley and they said due to the design it needed to be up to temperature before doing the test. Installer compromised and some holes were drilled to a vented air space under the floor and it was passed.

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:001_cool:

Would echo all positive comments above, the heat output relative to wood consumption is scarcely credible.

 

We've the 8kw model with room seal kit. It's on a central chimney breast so we used the right angle kit, on an outside wall it'd be even simpler to do and well worth it unless you have a pretty breezy house anyway.

 

Been flawless since the first time it was lit and continues to be so.

 

We have the Wakerley, 12kw. Brilliant stove.

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This is interesting. When the installer did the draft test he suggested they needed a hole in wall to improve draught. This was surprising as they have had two stoves previously both larger and neither had any draw problems. Dad had a chat with Burley and they said due to the design it needed to be up to temperature before doing the test. Installer compromised and some holes were drilled to a vented air space under the floor and it was passed.

 

Newer designs of stove tend to have a double baffle plate above the fire, this holds the heat in the stove longer and thus helps efficiency, but it needs more pull from the flue to pull the gases around the double baffle. So an older design of stove would work acceptably well.

 

Having said that I dont know if the Burley has a double baffle but if you can stick a direct air kit onto it.

 

A

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Two things definatley worth checking is that the air flow lever has been connected corectly at the rear and underneath the fire and also that all the loose shot blasting beads have been removed from the guts of the stove.

I know its not easy to lump these things about but i found a fair bit of the shot in the internals of my burley when i installed it.

And i have read reviews where others have have an issue with this shot blocking air flow.

 

Im very pleased with mine.

Good luck.

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Two things definatley worth checking is that the air flow lever has been connected corectly at the rear and underneath the fire and also that all the loose shot blasting beads have been removed from the guts of the stove.

I know its not easy to lump these things about but i found a fair bit of the shot in the internals of my burley when i installed it.

And i have read reviews where others have have an issue with this shot blocking air flow.

 

Im very pleased with mine.

Good luck.

 

Get the room seal kit ( vents from outside ) much more efficient

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Just been having a think and the only other thing I can mention at all is the level of ash in the bottom of the stove. That having been said I can't see it causing a problem of the scale you're talking about but ours definitely needs a wee bit more air if the ash gets neglected for an extra week or so.

 

On ours it doesn't cause an issue, therefore no one else bothers their @rse until I do it!, but if it was combined with a poor chimney draw and/or poor primary air flow maybe it would cause more of a problem and benefit from a weekly ash reduction or such like to keep the fire lower in the firebox.

 

Grasping at straws a bit I know but I really can't come up with anything else. :confused1:

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