Green furniture direct out of the log... let's see your designs!

[Rob D]

Hi Rob, as an idea, couldnt you use wall plate straps, as these are already predrilled, and you could just cut them to the required length.

 

 

Yep these would work I think although the only thing is not sure if they are wide enough...

[agg221]

You have it there Alec - I was thinking thick enough steel so could be counter sunk in order that you would not have an issue with the screw heads.

 

Only thing is that countersinks are more expensive to put in than a plain hole as you can't just laser/waterjet them out. You also get the on-cost of the thicker material, which matters more with SS than mild steel. SS is good as you can get it cut/drilled wherever you need and then just use it. Mild steel would need drilling before painting/galvanising which is more difficult, particularly as when you cut to length the ends would be bare and I can imagine that being difficult to get a neat finish on quickly on-site.

 

Alec

[Rob D]

Hmmm... good points there Alec - so maybe good quality SS brackets would be the way to go down....

[agg221]

Hmmm... good points there Alec - so maybe good quality SS brackets would be the way to go down....

 

Could be, although I can see your 'three rows of holes' approach working. I would imagine that if you screwed it on to the top of the leg first, then turned it upside down onto the inverted top and clonked it one when lined up you should get good witness marks to drill counterbore holes to carry the heads of fixings. A cordless drill will take a 19mm flat bit, which will take an M12 coach screw head, so that should account for some pretty heavy duty furniture

 

Alec

[Rob D]

Could be, although I can see your 'three rows of holes' approach working. I would imagine that if you screwed it on to the top of the leg first, then turned it upside down onto the inverted top and clonked it one when lined up you should get good witness marks to drill counterbore holes to carry the heads of fixings. A cordless drill will take a 19mm flat bit, which will take an M12 coach screw head, so that should account for some pretty heavy duty furniture

 

Alec

 

Like you thinking Alec - great way of producing witness marks and would be easy to then drill the countersinks.

 

 

Ok so what's the best way of getting the strips made up?

 

 

[agg221]

Ok so what's the best way of getting the strips made up?

 

I know a man who knows the answer to that, but he has just gone on holiday to Egypt and won't be back until late October. I shall ask him on his return.

 

Alec

[agrimog]

quickest and easiest, find someone with a metalworker, cuts and punches holes, no need to drill, or look at anyone spoecialisng in the marine side of metalwork, or perhaps the fancy achetectural bits. like your idea of csunk holes, the right punch set up on a metalworker would create "dimpled" holes, allowing positive location on the wood, just need to csnk the wood

[Tony Croft aka hamadryad]

need to get yourself something with a hiab on it Tony, best investment I ever made, can lift the logs onto the mill, and the cut slabs off, and then place the finished bits into place

 

you wouldnt get a hiab to the timber im moving:thumbup1:

 

A landy and a trailer is the only way out for the kind of wood im saving from the wood burner

[agrimog]

my hiab lives on a mog !, it goes where landys fear to tread....lol..set up purposely for the milling akward to get timber, and if its to tricky, the winch pulls 5 ton over to where it can be worked

[gobbypunk]

Hi guys I was just thinking with the nice thick slab table tops maybee a few small saw cuts running down the underside would reduce movement whilst seasoning ,like some chainsaw carvers put in carvings to reduce cracking ,oh and does anybody know where I can order m12 200/250 long coach screws in black all I can find is shinny ones and paint will chip off

Cheers Mark