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using a 880 up the tree


JosephD
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Not much fun on 4ft plus dead oak with thick flakey bark cutting rings to chuck down and avoiding targets ended up with a 460 on the harness as well to start the cuts and cut the rings in to quarters so I could actually move them.

Was very happy when we went back next day with cherry picker.

 

Great fun though throwing big limbs and tops on open spaced smash bash jobs!

Still prefer a 660or 395 though on a 36".

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Not sure how you guys have a bigger saw sent up? My prefered method and a system I will switch to if using a spider jack etc. Use the hitch climber and pull your line from between the hitch and pulley. Send that bight down have the groundy clip the saw to that and then they can haul it back up to you using 2:1 adavantage.

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88 and 3120 many times with a 4' bar. It's just a big saw. Practice lifting it into position whilst on the ground and get used to it.

Swing it up to vertical and brace your left arm against your left side as the weight of the saw comes down to the horizontal. Use your left hand a pivot point, controlling the angle of the saw with your right. Get a shallow scarf started quickly and then level the saw and keep cutting. Always have a wedge and small hammer on string attached to your harness.

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I've used an 880 with a 3ft bar, not a pleasant experience but worse still was the 076AV which had a terrible habit of cutting out just before you started to cut; then followed single handily the most awkward warm start known to man.....

 

the guys send the saw back down to be started most the time, it's very tricky for sure. Crap thing is on a tall tree the change in atmospheric pressure will quite often make it stall. But with being quitte heavy they dont get hauled up to fast.

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