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Tips for Hedge trimming


samthornton1990
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we use long reach articulated for most of our trimming, can go left to right or right to left, have a good balance making it less tiresome especially for taller hedges and offer better control for topiary work..

 

I don't like long reach hedge trimmers for fussy work...i like the feel of the blade nearer to my hands. That being said, you certainly don't seem to have a problem doing good work with them :thumbup1:

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Timing is important for conifer hedges. March to April if it's a regular once a year pure trimming job, that way you won't disturb any nesting birds, it'll look neat for the summer and put some protective growth on for the winter.

 

I've seen some nice hedges ruined by people being too meticulous about keeping Connie's nice n short all year round and it just doesn't happen.

 

Wider at the base is good like others have said.

 

Trim back to last years growth points, it'll stop it creeping out and encourage it to grow inwards making it more dense.

 

Avoid trimming in June cos it'll burn the cut ends.

 

Long handled hedge trimmers every time for me.

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Take it in turns if your on a pole hedge cutter to reduce HAVS I've had serious problems from doing hedges. I can't hold a hedge cutter for more than a few hours now, so don't. Although it was profitable.

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AND be clear with the customer whether to do both sides or just the customers side, and be clear on legal and responsibilities. ( i have been threatened with the police by an irate neighbour, aftermy customer told me specifically "my side only and don't talk to the neighbour, he's an asshole." and the number of times i've been told "a hedge is only supposed to be 6ft."

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best is A shape, wide at the bottom gives more room for a wildlife corridor, and the slope allows light to be more evenly distributed and permits better moisture retention for the roots. this is generally not the case, other than as field boundaries. for private customers, i try to keep the top as narrow as possible, by rounding it off, ( to me, it looks more natural - i've never seen a square tree..)

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Personally, I find a variety of trimmers/cutters best for varying jobs. I like a one sider for long expanses of compact hedging, where straightness is paramount. There is less likelihood of dipping the tip into the hedge, a bit like screeding a floor vertically! But I also like the double-siders for a really neat clip, as it cuts both ways as your sweeping across the top, so if a bit pings up you can get it. Agree with Steve on the fact that many don't take enough off each season. It also amazes me that if I do a hedge straight for season after season, they get in someone else and they can ruin years of work in one go.

Take a pride in what you do, if you think tree work is competitive, hedge work is more so, every body knows someone with a leccy trimmer that will have a hack at it. The secret is to do it very well, clear up properly, if it's a formal hedge, keep it tight and straight.

Oh and keep a trimmer for the pukka jobs, don't use it for the rough hedges or where there may be wire etc in the hedge, I normally put aside a "retired" trimmer for crap hedges.

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I listened to a gardening programme some months ago and the expert was asked about odd trees dying in a Leylandii hedge. His advice was that unless you left the width and height both to a minimum of 7 feet Leylandii will die back.

 

Any truth in that?

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