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Recommend me a good chain...


wisecobandit
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I'm sure chainsawbars.co.uk have a custom chain area on their web site and you can select the type of chain you want along with pitch and number of drive links and they will make it up for you, there decent on price and fast delivery, I've bought quite a bit from them.

 

Ian

 

Cheers fella. There it is Oregon 73/75 DPX who would of though it. How exciting. Wonder if it would swap some 73LPX for some DPX.

 

Ouch 300+vat for a 100' reel. Fortunately i only need a loop or two.

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The 73lpx I use is full chisel chain.

I wandered about the stihl rsc stuff spud aswell. Stihl chain last longer before needing sharpening over than the Oregon stuff as a rule due to the thicker chrome.

I see stihl also does a ripping chain now aswell.

 

Seems a bit of a no win situation I think, go to semi chisel and it will cut the fresh stuff slower, but need sharpening less.

Im not a lover of using skip chains mot that ive got a great deal of experience with them.

 

The full chisel doesn't seem to bite into the harder stuff well tho but perfect in the fresh stuff.

Wandering if its worth playing with the depth setting altho I don't think it will make a great deal of difference.

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The 73lpx I use is full chisel chain.

I wandered about the stihl rsc stuff spud aswell. Stihl chain last longer before needing sharpening over than the Oregon stuff as a rule due to the thicker chrome.

I see stihl also does a ripping chain now aswell.

 

Seems a bit of a no win situation I think, go to semi chisel and it will cut the fresh stuff slower, but need sharpening less.

Im not a lover of using skip chains mot that ive got a great deal of experience with them.

 

The full chisel doesn't seem to bite into the harder stuff well tho but perfect in the fresh stuff.

Wandering if its worth playing with the depth setting altho I don't think it will make a great deal of difference.

 

I'm really pleased with my chipper/semi chisel on the 3' 660 bar. Yes it cuts a little slower but a lot smoother. Also when you hit something in the bark or the wood its not done for. Very good if your doing big windblow or proper low stumps.

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The full chisel doesn't seem to bite into the harder stuff well tho but perfect in the fresh stuff.

Wandering if its worth playing with the depth setting altho I don't think it will make a great deal of difference.

 

surprised you say that, I've always found the full chisel more aggressive of the chains, watch out for vibe, kickback and aggressive cut nature (pull or push) if you choose to lower the depth gauges, I've taken mine down before and I can make it a pig to work with especially on bore cuts

 

Ian

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got mine from robs custom chain list too">> semi chisel that is" but not had chance to use it yet but when i do i think if its sucessful will order some spare loops as far as i,am aware full chisels for forestry use but it does seem to becoming more and more popular as i know ebay cheapest first comes first everytime so full chisel has become very common on the web

 

i wonder if its cheaper to manufacture etc than the semi chisel ?

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i have a husky 576xp with semi chisel on as not a fan of full chisel. and been cutting dead elm oak and it cuts a dream. and keeps its edge if you do not get near ground. have to have a good hold of saw as its cuts fast.

when i have used full chisel which was on the old farm boss saws it would like to kick back. but maybe it was me not used to using saws back in the dark ages.

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surprised you say that, I've always found the full chisel more aggressive of the chains, watch out for vibe, kickback and aggressive cut nature (pull or push) if you choose to lower the depth gauges, I've taken mine down before and I can make it a pig to work with especially on bore cuts

 

Ian

I think its just down to the seasoned oak, its about 4-5 years old/seasoned (and its the base of the tree) its just hard as nails so the cutters don't cut in as they would with fresh stuff, they glide over it rather than cut in fully.

Full chisel is aggressive but if its not being allowed to cut into the wood in the first place it cant remove it.

Wander if anyone who mills would know if changing the file angle down to 10 or 15 degrees which makes it cut more aggressive again would make a difference when it comes hardness?

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From an engineering point of view it`s normal to sharpen drills,lathe tools, etc differently suit the material that you are trying to cut so why should this be different for chainsaws. Assuming that the saw has the power to pull through, then it must all be down to the technicalities of setting up the chain for each type of wood. Sitka and seasoned oak or beech must be as far apart as aluminium and mild steel for instance.............then there`s the cutting speed and the lube to consider, which will all affect chain life and therefore efficiency. Cheers. hope that`s not too boring !!

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