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Posted

got mine from robs custom chain list too">> semi chisel that is" but not had chance to use it yet but when i do i think if its sucessful will order some spare loops as far as i,am aware full chisels for forestry use but it does seem to becoming more and more popular as i know ebay cheapest first comes first everytime so full chisel has become very common on the web

 

i wonder if its cheaper to manufacture etc than the semi chisel ?

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Posted

i have a husky 576xp with semi chisel on as not a fan of full chisel. and been cutting dead elm oak and it cuts a dream. and keeps its edge if you do not get near ground. have to have a good hold of saw as its cuts fast.

when i have used full chisel which was on the old farm boss saws it would like to kick back. but maybe it was me not used to using saws back in the dark ages.

Posted
surprised you say that, I've always found the full chisel more aggressive of the chains, watch out for vibe, kickback and aggressive cut nature (pull or push) if you choose to lower the depth gauges, I've taken mine down before and I can make it a pig to work with especially on bore cuts

 

Ian

I think its just down to the seasoned oak, its about 4-5 years old/seasoned (and its the base of the tree) its just hard as nails so the cutters don't cut in as they would with fresh stuff, they glide over it rather than cut in fully.

Full chisel is aggressive but if its not being allowed to cut into the wood in the first place it cant remove it.

Wander if anyone who mills would know if changing the file angle down to 10 or 15 degrees which makes it cut more aggressive again would make a difference when it comes hardness?

Posted

From an engineering point of view it`s normal to sharpen drills,lathe tools, etc differently suit the material that you are trying to cut so why should this be different for chainsaws. Assuming that the saw has the power to pull through, then it must all be down to the technicalities of setting up the chain for each type of wood. Sitka and seasoned oak or beech must be as far apart as aluminium and mild steel for instance.............then there`s the cutting speed and the lube to consider, which will all affect chain life and therefore efficiency. Cheers. hope that`s not too boring !!

Posted
From an engineering point of view it`s normal to sharpen drills,lathe tools, etc differently suit the material that you are trying to cut so why should this be different for chainsaws. Assuming that the saw has the power to pull through, then it must all be down to the technicalities of setting up the chain for each type of wood. Sitka and seasoned oak or beech must be as far apart as aluminium and mild steel for instance.............then there`s the cutting speed and the lube to consider, which will all affect chain life and therefore efficiency. Cheers. hope that`s not too boring !!

 

Lube isn't a factor with cutters, squaring the angle will make the cutter a little more durable at the cost of power and vibration. It will also make more dust

Posted

Used 73dp on my 576 for a while but didn't like it. Main use for the saw for the last few months is felling and cross cutting long dead elm.

Much happier on full chisel Oregon. Give it a tickle at lunchtime if it needs it and keep it out the muck.

Posted

I would check the rakers are at the right height. I have same saw but have 325 bar semi chisel and some dead standing oak hard as nails cuts like butter even with carlton chain. I find a new chain cuts better than one that is nearly worn out aswell.

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