Spuds Porting and Tuning Thread

[spudulike]

I'm about to pull the trigger on a new 201T Spud, any recs?

 

Better and more durable than a 540?

 

My 200's fine, but my backup 020t AVE's still a bit temperamental at times, but still screams!

 

Do you trust these microprocessor driven new saws like the 201?

 

I run very high octane racing fuel, mixed with stihl's silver synthetic mix.

 

Thanks for any advice mate.

 

Jomoco

 

The autotune is great when it works and is the way forward. Unfortunately you cant get in to the carbs and resolve some issues as you could on standard carbs. Sometimes people just jump on the autotune and blame that rather than diagnosing the real route cause giving it bad press.

 

One issue of these lean burn autotune engines is that they use much less fuel and therefore much less oil and this makes for bottom end bearing issues and possible top end seizes so.......a fully synthetic decent quality oil and a 40:1 mix would be my recommendation and sounds like you are there anyway - just use a fatter oil to petrol ratio to keep the saw sweet.

 

The technology will become more reliable as it did in the automotive world, just takes time!

[openspaceman]

I did read somewhere the very high octane fuel wont make the engine run as well as lower octane fuel unless you have the higher compression to make it combust properly .

 

That's my understanding, higher octane resists detonation better but comes at the price of less calories, so you have to burn more fuel for the same power.

[wisewood]

I would retune both but it is only the H screw that may cause damage. I would just tach the saw to 13000 - 13500 rpm, without a tach, give the H screw a 1/4 turn anti clockwise and check the plug colour after an hours running - it should be coffee colour!

 

I would be concerned about just putting on a dual port without any retune!

 

Hi Steve,

Got the saw tached just under 13000

But both H and L screws are between 3/4 to 1 turn out so less than factory settings.

Does this sound ok?

New plug only put one tank in and checked.

Will take another look after next tank.

Cheers, Si

[spudulike]

The plug looks a bit light but also hasn't gained much colour yet. If it is tached to 13000rpm, all should be fine.

[wisewood]

The plug looks a bit light but also hasn't gained much colour yet. If it is tached to 13000rpm, all should be fine.

 

Good to hear mate, thanks a lot 👍

I'll keep checking the plug for now.

[jamallio96]

How much difference do you reckon a muffler mod and retune would make to a Husky 445, and would it be worth it?

[spudulike]

How much difference do you reckon a muffler mod and retune would make to a Husky 445, and would it be worth it?

 

A muffler mod would be the simple way to go as the engine is a clam shell type so it makes porting more difficult and gives less options.

[jamallio96]

A muffler mod would be the simple way to go as the engine is a clam shell type so it makes porting more difficult and gives less options.

Aye, but would it make a noticeable difference to the saws performance, or is it not worth it on a small-ish semi-pro saw?

[spudulike]

Aye, but would it make a noticeable difference to the saws performance, or is it not worth it on a small-ish semi-pro saw?

 

Probably not worth your while paying to have it on my bench but if you can do it yourself, it would be worth it.

[Lazurus]

A muffler mod would be the simple way to go as the engine is a clam shell type so it makes porting more difficult and gives less options.

 

Sorry to hi jack the thread Spud, but can you explain a "muffler mod" I hear about it a lot but don't know exactly what it is. Is it similar to exhaust tuning on IC engines for better breathing etc.?

 

S.