Spuds Porting and Tuning Thread

[spudulike]

I know stubby I'm just reminding him 👍 he needs to have a design a logo competition, maybe the winner gets a works port job or some thing.

 

They are on the list:lol:

[Goaty]

I know stubby I'm just reminding him 👍 he needs to have a design a logo competition, maybe the winner gets a works port job or some thing.

 

A potato with a aggressive frown and eyes with a speeding bar that swells toward the sprocket end coming out of it. SPUDWORKS or SPUDERIZED stamped in the bar on the logo.

No exhaust clouds, maybe just a little chug of smoke with = sign out the back of the spud.

 

I do it for free, but havnt got the time to practice my art.

 

Then a "My other motor is ported" sticker to go in back of car/arbtruck.

 

It would be masonic, only those in the know would know.

[spudulike]

Here is the vid of the MS150, cutting very hard and seasoned Elm. Sorry about the crap quality, the light was fading!

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[Joe Newton]

Here is the vid of the MS150, cutting very hard and seasoned Elm. Sorry about the crap quality, the light was fading!

 

 

 

Looks and sounds good mate. I think fresh green timber would do it justice!

[peatff]

It sounds like an angry wasp in a jam jar

[spudulike]

The saga of my ported 066 Red Eye continues, a very old coil gave an ignition advance of 20 deg with no change on revving it. In the cut it had as much go as a bog standard 50cc old saw on its 20" bar so pretty crap. Technically a two stroke with a set advance should be around 25 - 27 deg which will make full power but lots of kick on start up.

 

The lack of power I assumed was lack of ignition advance and the following backs this up.

 

I have tested a standard MS660 and it has circa 30 deg at idle and 22.5 deg around 7-8k revs so this coil has a built in advance and retard circuit which I already knew but wanted to find out what and when it kicked in.

 

I have now fitted a MS660 aftermarket coil to my saw and it is now idling with 22.5 deg at idle and this drops right down to 5-10 deg flat out. This sounds a lot but having done a lot of research on the subject, a good curve will be near zero for ease of starting, rising vertically to around 29-32 deg at idle and then down to 20 deg in mid range and dropping at max revs to 0 -15 degrees to protect the engine from pre ignition, the curse of ignition modification.

 

Soooo - the answer is to take the flywheel off and position it ten degrees clockwise of where it is now giving a few degrees extra advance on standard to give the engine extra wallop but not enough to cause pre ignition.

 

Anybody still following the train of thought:001_rolleyes:thought not......guess I do too much thinking:lol:

 

In laymans terms - I now know where I need to be, why the saw isn't right and what I need to do:thumbup:

 

Oh - I have learn't a lot about ignition timing advance as well!

[wyk]

Cool story, Bro(I'm in Lisbon now).

[spudulike]

Cool story, Bro(I'm in Lisbon now).

 

I would expect nothing less, life is hard in Wykland isn't it:001_rolleyes:

[wyk]

I would expect nothing less, life is hard in Wykland isn't it:001_rolleyes:

 

Ahh yeahhh

 

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[Stubby]

Tough at the top and crowded at the bottom Wes !