Blocking, chunking, undermining the COG

[mistahbenn]

Going by High scales Avatar he knows about this trick:biggrin:

 

If you look really close there is a pull rope

[High Scale]

Haha, yep six ton winch on that one.

[Pete Mctree]

I've always just done break cuts as I find putting gobs in takes a lot longer and when it goes over it sends it further away from the base of the stem, but it does limit me to length of chunks I'm knocking off.

I'll give that a go next pine I'm dismantling:thumbup1:

 

A wide face cut will keep it closer to the stem

[Dan Curtis]

Nice Reg, thanks.

 

I regularly undermine blocks and stems. One thing I do if the favour is a little away from where I want is to bore the hinge from the back whilst making the back cut. I generally run into the side closest to me and form the hinge, punch the nose through into the gob, then pull out and sweep the far side to set up the hinge. I find it a really nice maneuver that is doable from one position. It gives you that little bit more stability on side weighted lumps and wobbly stems

[BenR]

Nice Reg, thanks.

 

I regularly undermine blocks and stems. One thing I do if the favour is a little away from where I want is to bore the hinge from the back whilst making the back cut. I generally run into the side closest to me and form the hinge, punch the nose through into the gob, then pull out and sweep the far side to set up the hinge. I find it a really nice maneuver that is doable from one position. It gives you that little bit more stability on side weighted lumps and wobbly stems

 

Nice advice Dan, I did this yesterday on my darts poplar sticks. Around 50% narrow gob (not narrow enough) through from one side pop the nose of the saw through, back out and then around to the other side. I was using a 12" bar on the husky in 18ish" wood so I kind of had to. Too lazy to get a bigger saw up:001_smile:

[RC0]

Thanks.

 

I am glad to see some interest, and good input about such a topic.

 

Pete I couldn't agree more on the back-cut:thumbup1:

 

Just a thought about something I said in the video....the part about it being easier to match you cuts by doing the diagonal first where no room for overlap exists, quite obvious really. But that's not to suggest that its all that difficult to cut the horizontal first either. Furthermore, if you're using the site-lines to aim a tree, the better results come from setting the horizontal first....especially on big stuff.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just

[High Scale]

Fair shout though Reg, it's tips like that that save time and more importantly effort.

[Tom Richards]

Intresting video thanks for taking the time to put it together!

[Mark Bolam]

More useful stuff Reg, and Petes comment is very important.

 

How's your weather?

Crispy and still in Kent today, best day for weeks.

[shendy]

I do it when felling stems. learnt from my own mistakes in the past hammering wedges in for ages and it not going over