Fitting a log burner

[Pat Ferrett]

This is a picture of the fire place atm and the stocton 3 is designed to fit the opening if the back brick is removed.

Its a fire up stairs hence the short chimney so maybe a liner is over kill I just thought it might prevent stressing the chimney with the heat genorated.

[Chippy]

Conrete board, looks a bit like asbestos sheet.

[mendiplogs]

This is a picture of the fire place atm and the stocton 3 is designed to fit the opening if the back brick is removed.

Its a fire up stairs hence the short chimney so maybe a liner is over kill I just thought it might prevent stressing the chimney with the heat genorated.

 

HI PAT my dad has 3 like that and they give out loads of heat his ones thanks jon

[Mull]

Fire board, concrete board, 9mm, 12mm thick maybe more sizes not sure, might get away without liner but I guess stove is designed to be most efficient with recommended liner.

[testcricket01]

I fitted my log burner in my old house last year it was a open fireplace i bought the little woodburner to fit straight in the opening bought the stainless flue bought all fittings etc couple of hours all done very easy to do if the chimney is already there and working its a simple job

[muttley9050]

Fitted loads of stoves, its simple. Easiest way for me, forget the liner if you don't need one.

If you want to leave your surround as is and burner will fit ok, just remove the cast fire and bricks behind it. Get a piece of 1.6mm galv, cut it 20mm bigger than opening. Fold steel 10mm down around all edges. This gives you a lip to screw through. Cut a hole for stove pipe in correct place in plate. Fit plate. Fire silicone round outside of it to seal. Put stove pipe through plate fit burner and seal round joint between plate and pipe. Job done. When it comes to sweeping, remove stove and plate, sweep and replace. Takes me about an hour on my similar set up.

Your welcome to pm if you want more help. Would happily guide you through it on phone or send you lots of different set ups in our house where we have retained the original surround. Think we have around 30 burners in our place.

Edited October 10, 2013 by muttley9050

[muttley9050]

I want to fit a stove in my house but I have yet to convince the missus it would be a good thing. Saving a grand a year or more on gas bills would be a good thing but apparently that's not enough to convince her. Anyway I might do it one day when she's out to surprise her! I don't have a chimney to line so would have to go out through the wall. A double skin of normal brick which is rendered on top. Would all I have to do is drill through with a core drill at 45 degrees and at the other side when the flue is inserted seal up the gap with heat resistant silicone to stop any draughts/leaks. That's the only bit I am not sure of and I don't mind climbing the ladders to attach the flue pipe or stuff like that.

 

The problem with fitting a stove like this is getting the external flue high enough. It should go above the ridge so unless you have a flat roof you need lots of bracketing to support flue which is expensive and ugly.

If I was fitting it I would go through wall horizontally and then go up. You need stainless twin wall external flue. This is expensive. Problems can occur if you have a big overhang in your roof and you have to dog leg flue around it.

Edited October 10, 2013 by muttley9050

[Mull]

I want to fit a stove in my house but I have yet to convince the missus it would be a good thing. Saving a grand a year or more on gas bills would be a good thing but apparently that's not enough to convince her. Anyway I might do it one day when she's out to surprise her! I don't have a chimney to line so would have to go out through the wall. A double skin of normal brick which is rendered on top. Would all I have to do is drill through with a core drill at 45 degrees and at the other side when the flue is inserted seal up the gap with heat resistant silicone to stop any draughts/leaks. That's the only bit I am not sure of and I don't mind climbing the ladders to attach the flue pipe or stuff like that.

 

Apparently 45 degrees is not a good thing for stove flues, 35 degrees max! Hot spots in flues shortens it's life.

[Stubby]

Fitted loads of stoves, its simple. Easiest way for me, forget the liner if you don't need one.

If you want to leave your surround as is and burner will fit ok, just remove the cast fire and bricks behind it. Get a piece of 1.6mm galv, cut it 20mm bigger than opening. Fold steel 10mm down around all edges. This gives you a lip to screw through. Cut a hole for stove pipe in correct place in plate. Fit plate. Fire silicone round outside of it to seal. Put stove pipe through plate fit burner and seal round joint between plate and pipe. Job done. When it comes to sweeping, remove stove and plate, sweep and replace. Takes me about an hour on my similar set up.

Your welcome to pm if you want more help. Would happily guide you through it on phone or send you lots of different set ups in our house where we have retained the original surround. Think we have around 30 burners in our place.

 

When sweeping I just remove the top baffle and vermiculite board and sweep it through the stove . All the soot collects in the stove and I just vac it out . No need to remove the stove ......

[muttley9050]

Problem I find with that method is when retaining the original surround there just isn't much room. Also if you leave the register plate in(i couldn't get mine out without removing stove) then you get a build up of soot in top of plate that is a pita to clean. I just find that removing the stove makes life a lot easier and means you can do a better job. Other stoves in the house and my parents I sweep in the same way as you, but on mine it doesn't work for me.