What silky do you use

[coleman]

Tsuguri...its animal and you can get into tight spaces for a good cut!

[Le Sanglier]

Tsuguri...its animal and you can get into tight spaces for a good cut!

 

This is getting gayer by the minute!

[WillTimberlake]

Yeah pansies that only use silkys so they can wear Mr Bump plasters.

 

Hahahaha!!!!!

[WillTimberlake]

This is getting gayer by the minute!

 

Haha does sound rather gay doesn't it!!!

[scotspine1]

Sugoi 360, been using various Silkys for years now, Natanokos, Zubats and Gomtaros, simply put, the Sugoi 360 will outcut, outlast and basically out perform every other Silky out there, got a box full of old Natanokos, Zubats and Gomtaros that haven't seen the light of day for years since I got the Sugoi.

 

The hooked handle, the hooked nose and the speed of cut make it the best handsaw available for treework IMO, especially if you do a lot of removals.

[Mr P]

Zubat and just got the leg straps which are great. It's good and stiff, you can take it out and put it away with one hand but I won't let anyone else touch it unless they're gentle with it...too far??ha

 

 

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[Shane]

You can sharpen the chain on a top handled saw a lot easier than a silky blade.

 

When you cost out the replacement blades it works out bl33din expensive, even if they save the day.

 

I guess we must be real men down here in Sussex (excluding Brighton, obviously)

[scotspine1]

You can sharpen the chain on a top handled saw a lot easier than a silky blade

 

the Silky is for small diameter branches, if your using the handsaw for what it's been designed to do, you'll cut 1000s of these small diam branches before you even begin to feel it getting blunt.

 

It goes without saying, if you need to cut thicker branches you use the top handled saw.

 

Using a top handled to cut hundreds of small diameter branches on pruning jobs is both a waste of a good top handled saw and also a total waste of an A grade product like a Silky which is specifically designed with treeclimbers in mind.

 

When you cost out the replacement blades it works out bl33din expensive, even if they save the day.

 

Again. if you use the handsaw for what it's been designed for ie useful stuff like pruning/thinning out small diam stuff or removing small hand held branches during an awkward part of a removal (reducing a branch overhanging a conservatory) then the issue of replacement blades is insignificant because the handsaw is paying for itself a hundred times over.

 

I guess we must be real men down here in Sussex

 

the pioneers of treework only ever used handsaws, sure they'd have used chainsaws to take out these sections if they had the option, but when the chainsaws arrived you can bet these guys still took handsaws into the tree no matter what they were doing.

[will.morris]

Tsurugi medium tooth version (yellow handle).

 

Good handsaw for neat pruning as the narrow blade allows you to get into small forks for an accurate cut. The blades are not flimsey like they appear, I had my first blade for over a year and only replaced it because I lost it.

 

It's hard work on the harder wood species but I guess that's what the large tooth (red handle) version is for. For trees like pin oak I'll always take a chainsaw up with me (the ms150 is perfect in this scenario!).

[Dean Lofthouse]

We do a lot of domestic fruit tree pruning and restoration, on Friday I did two different jobs and pruned about eight trees, never even took a chainsaw with me.

 

Using a chainsaw would be like using hammer to knock a screw in.