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Thanks to Husqvarna!


Shane
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I think Husky have missed a trick -

I am wondering why they didn't make their bars of a length to be compatible with the MS200 chains. It would mean we could have a mix of saws without having to have.... you can work out the rest.

 

So, if they did, perhaps the next question would be "Oh why didnt husky make their bars fit a stihl?":001_rolleyes:

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I think Husky have missed a trick -

I am wondering why they didn't make their bars of a length to be compatible with the MS200 chains. It would mean we could have a mix of saws without having to have.... you can work out the rest.

.

 

 

I prefer the husky/ oregon etc, equal left and right cutters. rather then consecutive same side cutters on the even number inch bar lengths.:confused1:

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You cleverly use the same chain as Stihl (fank god 'Arry) but just so the 10 or so chains I have cycling around for my MS200s cannot be used on your saw you have developed bar lengths which require a different number of drive links!

 

So you actually removed part used chains from your MS200????Do you really grind or get ground a chain that is so small it takes minuets to sharpen???

 

When I fit a chain to any of my saws, it stays on till the teeth are so thin the start coming off.

 

So if I changed saws an spare chains would be new and could be altered or exchanged.

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So you actually removed part used chains from your MS200????Do you really grind or get ground a chain that is so small it takes minuets to sharpen???

 

When I fit a chain to any of my saws, it stays on till the teeth are so thin the start coming off.

 

So if I changed saws an spare chains would be new and could be altered or exchanged.

 

I find it a bit quicker to just swap chains over during the day then sharpen any spares on the bench. Reduced down time at work and slightly more accurate sharpening - but that's just me.

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so skyhuck, no chain rotation, no bar flips, no checking of the sprocket or drive links, all the checks you do when you rotate between your 2 or 3 chains for each saw, maximise the life of chains bars and sprockets, run 3 chains in rotation, if nothing else youve got spares on site should you damage one

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so skyhuck, no chain rotation, no bar flips, no checking of the sprocket or drive links, all the checks you do when you rotate between your 2 or 3 chains for each saw, maximise the life of chains bars and sprockets, run 3 chains in rotation, if nothing else youve got spares on site should you damage one

 

Nope, bar is fettled and rotated when new chain is fitted, sprocket changed as needed, chain sharpened as required until dead, then replaced and repeat.

 

New chains are always in cab.

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