ms200t

[spudulike]

:lol: could just see the next thread.....

 

Or just remove the pot altogether so its easier to hold or clamp in a vice.

 

Not sure where you are going with this one Rich, the ones I have done in this way, I guess you could do it with the fuel tank in place or strip the cylinder off the machine but the way I describe works fine for me....each man to his own as they say!

[Rich2484]

Not sure where you are going with this one Rich, the ones I have done in this way, I guess you could do it with the fuel tank in place or strip the cylinder off the machine but the way I describe works fine for me....each man to his own as they say!

 

I meant by the last bit about stuffing the port. Could see him not doing it then starting a new thread about why it has seized with huge canyons in it.

 

As you say each to there own. In my mind if you are taking the handle and tank assembly off the may aswell remove the pot and then you can check the piston and pot for any damage at the same time.

 

It's only four bolts once everything else is off anyway.

[Chippy]

Use a centre punch to try and screw the sheared stud out, there will normally be a small pip where the thread has broken, put your centre punch on this and gently tap it with a hammer, make sure you go in the right direction ie anti-clockwise.

[simon@BGS]

cheers guys, gonna giv it a go this week n start strippin it down, cheers spud will let u know what happens :-)

[skyhuck]

I generally weld something (a bit of bar or a nut) to the end of sheared studs and then use the attached bar or nut to unscrew the stud.

 

Some times just sticking a welding rod to the end of the stud is enough to get it out.

[Stubby]

I generally weld something (a bit of bar or a nut) to the end of sheared studs and then use the attached bar or nut to unscrew the stud.

 

Some times just sticking a welding rod to the end of the stud is enough to get it out.

 

Thats good on an exposed stud but from what I understand it is a bolt that has sheered and I'm guessing its under flush . I think the only way is " easy outs " or stud extractors .

Edited July 16, 2013 by Stubby
spelling

[treequip]

I generally weld something (a bit of bar or a nut) to the end of sheared studs and then use the attached bar or nut to unscrew the stud.

 

Some times just sticking a welding rod to the end of the stud is enough to get it out.

 

That's the best bet if you can get at the broken end.

 

For my part screw extractors are pants, particularly on small diameters they are tapered and spread the bolt tightening it in the hole, I find drilling a small hole and tapping a "torx" bit in has a better chance of success. The parallel profile of the torx wont swell the bolt and the flutes provide more than enough drive

 

The trick is getting the pilot hole to start straight, not always easy because the bolt doesn't shear off flat

[geoff]

Worst case scenario, get spark erosion done, I paid £60 to remove a broken exhaust stud from an alloy head.

Here is one company that does it, but there are a few about.

 

Spark erosion or Spark eroding or electro disintegration on site mobile service

[spudulike]

Here is one I prepared earlier:thumbup:

[spudulike]

And here another that got mullered removing the broken bolt and helicoil holding it in! An insert was used on this one.