Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

First go on the mill...


LeBucheron
 Share

Recommended Posts

It's a question that keeps coming up ref drying wood and i think the more you work with wood and dry it the more you lean towards the quarter sawn route and away from through sawn.

 

 

Most of the stuff I mill now is through the middle with an Alaskan and then that half onto the bandsaw and then most of the milled timber will dry and remain stable.

 

 

 

 

:001_smile:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Log in or register to remove this advert

  • Replies 27
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  LeBucheron said:
Aren't they going to warp like mad if I use batons? Or will straps keep it together ok? Just thinking until september as the tree was felled in october.

 

If there is stress, it will move. It will do it whether you dry it first or don't dry it first. The only way to stop it moving is to use it in something where it is nailed down so solid that it can't move.

 

I know straps are fairly commonly used, but in practice I think they only make a lot of difference if you don't want to stick a big weight on the top, e.g. if you want to kiln dry it. The board on the bottom of a stack has the full weight of the tree on it - it's only when you get up to the top that there isn't much weight on it, but sticking the outer slab back on will soon do the trick.

 

The issue at this time of year is more about slowing drying down to avoid cracking. Stacking in the shade, with thin sticks (10mm or so) would be my preferred way to manage this.

 

Ref. milling small logs. I do quite a bit of this (most of my milling is also for personal use, it's just that a lot of it is for construction of boats/extension etc. so the sizes are large). The cutting pattern shown is nice - haven't tried that but worth using. There is a technique which someone put a video link on here for, showing someone cutting timber for a house in the Philippines, freehand with a chainsaw. I've used it since and the rocking pattern with the saw shown here really does come out with a good, flat surface, taking almost all the waste out of freehanding (although I've adapted it slightly in that I usually hold the saw by its full handle, and generally wear shoes). Link is here:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=02QWRo1W4II

 

Other techniques for steadying. If milling on the ground I have some wedge shaped blocks I can stick under the curve. They want to be steeper than the curve, so they bear on the outside rather than the middle so the log doesn't pivot on them. If I have a half-log or quarter-log up on edge, I bang in a couple of short, sacrificial pegs about 1"x2" section against the flat side, then lift it up against them. I then stick wedges under the curved side. If milling lower than the pegs I just cut straight through them.

 

On a full log, I have tried sticking a short coach screw through a crosswise batten, up into the log. A 2" coach screw embedded 1" (other 1" in the batten) will hold things still and the bottom edge is scrap anyway.

 

Alec

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  muttley9050 said:
Also interested in others techniques for stabilizing small logs for millling without fouling mill too soon.

 

 

I had a think about this and remembered a small log I milled a couple of years ago when I first bought a small log mill for use with a chainsaw with a 14 inch bar. Quite a contrast to some of the massive trees milled in other threads! I wondered what the definition of a small log might be? Some years ago I read an article from someone wondering whether the walnut tree in their garden was worth milling and the advice was that 'if you can only just get your arms around it, it will be big enough'. Since I started milling with the small log mill I've not been able to walk past a tree without wondering if I could put my arms right around it......! Which is probably a bit strange?

 

Pictures below are the 1st and 2nd cuts on a small log of laburnum which was gripped in a Black and Decker workmate to hold it steady. It had burrs all round so it held fine but for a round log, you could screw a block of wood to the underside and grip that in the jaws of the workmate. Third picture are the planks cut from three short sections from this laburnum tree which had several bends, hence why it was cut into short lengths. Although the sapwood had rotted away, the heartwood was sound and so this was another bit of firewood which was well worth milling for personal use. I've since bought a chainsaw with a 20 inch bar but I suspect that the smaller saw would still be preferable for this size of log.

 

Andrew

5976653739f4e_Laburnumplankscompressed.jpg.4ec9bd545c71c4d7f766a7891fe8337b.jpg

5976653737912_Laburnum2ndcutcompressed.jpg.f396489a5101c379400739c7e758ed94.jpg

5976653735422_Laburnumfirstcutcompressed.jpg.dbfedf5d647f143c2025494d2aa528ae.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

RE: Metal in timber

 

I try to look at the dust coming off the mill if I suspect that there may be metal, a change in colour to grey sets the alarm bells ringing, you will soon learn that "galvanising nails is the work of the devil" as it hides the damn things....the worst I have hit was a Yankee screwdriver bit driven into a Beech tree, and an ingrown flint 8ft up an Oak courtesy of a magpie or small child in a rot hole that appeared to have grown over... both did for the band completely.

But as a generalisation, beware of garden/hedgerow trees.. washing lines, bird boxes and fencing etc,afterall why use a post when you have a tree!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


  •  

  • Featured Adverts

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Read more  

Follow us

Articles

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.