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youcallthatbig

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About youcallthatbig

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  1. if I were asked to mill this log I would recommend splitting in half down heart crack, then split again into quarters, thereby keeping all the possible issues with iron in one quarter, to later mill into larger sections( thereby reducing the chances of hitting metal), the remaining 3/4 to be mill into nice stable clean QS boards, with any heart faults to one side of the board which will be of managable sizes to move by hand. For example , photo below is ms880 c/w 48" bar
  2. Personally I would avoid Bennets if their re tipping service of circular blades is anything like their efforts on some bandsaws I once sent them, the workmanship was more third world than precision.... I would have thought any large resharpening specialist service would do a half decent job having brazed on the tips then side and top ground them, I would recommend Edwards precision saws in devon, if they do the job properly then any carriage cost is worth the money.
  3. do it for 25 years and then see what you think.....
  4. cut as per rh side of image, not all oaks have prominent ray in my experience, some huge trees i have milled have yielded some very plain QS boards, unlike the ones in the image.These came from a tree 78" dia, cross cut to length, halved then quartered by chainsaw, cut into cants to give board width then milled to required boards. I always thought that QS meant saw cut was at a greater tangent angle than 45* to growth ring,
  5. I run an autotrek with a 4" wide blade, cutting up to 1mt wide, unless the log is mild without knots I would only attempt such a cut with a recently sharpened blade, on a 2" wide or narrower blade i would say the accuracy of cut along with speed of cut would be open to question, so tend to wholeheartedly agree with Big J on all his points. Seriously, how many logs do you have access to that requires a 48" or wider T&T cut so that the purchase is a no brainer....otherwise stick with what you have got.
  6. its 48" dia american white oak, with no loading on site...... suggested an alaskan to him....
  7. what make is the mobile mill, got a client in n.norfolk that might beinterested in your serices as the autotrek i run only goes to 38"ish
  8. or you could try this... https://www.preservation-solutions.com/product/end-grain-sealer/
  9. been in yard for several years before I thought it would be just firewood..... sound in middle of 8'lengths , so happy days ... cut with bowl blanks in mind by chainsaw, that way the end user can determine what and how he uses the material, automatically cutting everything as thick boards limits usage and creates more work!
  10. if it is the Tim Perkins I think it is John, he's in Halesworth if it is.....I don't know, all these locals buying there own mills....no wonder I will never be rich....
  11. No not many, but even if you catch the head on something in the hedge and bend it out of alignment you will wish you would have had it inboard..... The Autotrek ,Wimmer, not sure about the bigger Serra(I know you can reduce the width of the heads on some of the Bavaria models), certainly turn through 90*,but these will be wider then your mill, and these are generally built like brick out houses, not decrying the build quality of your mill but I bet it is not using the same gauge steel as those.....I would certainly have it inboard, on twin axles and only 7mts long, towing anything much longer and turning into gateways could be a PITA unless its double gated.
  12. and even at 7metres long with a single axle you will need to be getting the weight distribution spot on....
  13. so will running wheels be the width of the cutting head assembly, or are you planning to turn it 90* and fix it in place, otherwise your head will most likely be the widest part of the mill/trailer combination, meet a lorry coming in the opposite direction and you might need some clean underwear.... just a thought from towing mills around country lanes for the past 20 odd years....
  14. yes, to the outside bit, but not a tarp, just a roof with good overhang ,with sticks within 2" of the board ends then every 15-18" all cut equal thickness, and placed accurately above preceding stick...... nice bit of "lacewood" btw....

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