Tunnissen Chipper Model 190 puts a spanner in the works

[Mr Ed]

Ben, I should have told you to get us to fit a new no stress clock when we fitted the engine. We can retro fit the US made LOR tacho's, which alow you to programme the clock to your own needs.

Is the solenoid valve fitted to your machine?

[benedmonds]

If so' date=' it could just be that the rev counter gizmo needs resetting, its easy to do, like an old digital watch.

[/quote']

 

Where and how do I do this? My groundies don't like using the machine as they're scared they'll stall it again... and I'll swear at them again... I don't find it a problem but they do..

 

Ben, I should have told you to get us to fit a new no stress clock when we fitted the engine. We can retro fit the US made LOR tacho's, which alow you to programme the clock to your own needs.

Is the solenoid valve fitted to your machine

 

I did mention it as I was picking the chipper up, but forgot to mention it before then!

[skyhuck]

My groundies don't like using the machine as they're scared they'll stall it again... and I'll swear at them again... I don't find it a problem but they do..

 

 

 

.

 

When I had my Entec Chippit 25 I had a switch under the engine cover, so I could turn off the no stress.

 

When I was chipping I would turn it off, as I could operate the stop/go bar faster than the no stress and speed up productivity.

 

If I was up the tree and the groundie was chipping I would turn the no stress on.

 

I used to call it the numpty switch .

[Johny Walker]

When I had my Entec Chippit 25 I had a switch under the engine cover, so I could turn off the no stress.

 

When I was chipping I would turn it off, as I could operate the stop/go bar faster than the no stress and speed up productivity.

 

If I was up the tree and the groundie was chipping I would turn the no stress on.

 

I used to call it the numpty switch .

 

i had ph 25 too never had to doctor the no strees as it was dam fast, you must have got one off the early ones they very dodgey, was it the smarty tube type? entec exchange all those for the new type free off charge. i do believe david orange said i was the his first sale down here

[shillo]

ive got a 190 and its pretty good but not as good as my old premier 200, more engine grunt but a few gripes, heres the list

 

feed rollers not as powerful

 

annoyingly small bits which get left in no mans land between feed rollers and blades at turn off get caught in blades at next start up not allowing the blades to get momentum up, so youve got to open her up and pull out a tiny flippin woodchip!

 

chip spout is not as directional as premier, chips really fly out the end, which is probably ok if youve got a wide box, i havent, and tend to lose chip out the sides, over the top etc, its a bit wild. also preset holes for direction pointing are never quite right, i prefer a simple clamp.

 

the hitch is really crap for a chipper, tiny bits of chip and dust get stuck behind the lock lever preventing you from pulling it back to lift the handle to unhitch the machine, youve got to clen it out nearly ever time with some thing really fine like a pocket knife, this is really really annoying.

 

the brakes are crap, from new the damper ram seams too soft or something and smacks me up the rear when i stop, on certain gradients the brakes just screach on and off rapidly, the hand brake is also crap it will go right over centre and roll off if you havent put the chocks in place, i never even used the chocks on the premier once, need them every time with the 190, premier uses alko gear 190 uses knott stuff. it might not be adjusted right but it was like from new.

 

you cant get the hydraulic filter out through the hole, you can unscrew it but cant get the flippin thing out, i had to take the mud flap off to get it out.

 

the screw bolt thing for lifting or lowering the shute is simply a bit of threaded bar glued inside a nut, so when you screw the thing up and try to un screw it to change the angle the the plastic bit comes off in your hand and the threaded bar stays done up leaving you to have to try and get it out with a pair of mole grips and find a bolt that fits.

 

the mechanical stop bar is not as easy to use but this is probably a health and safety thing, its easier to trip the bar, finding forward/reverse or stop whilst your fighting with a big lump of thorn is not as easy. hard to explain why its not as good just isnt.

 

the key they supply you with to unlock the hood and side doors is heavy, let me explain! i left this key on with the other keys, as you do, machine is running fine, then you put a big bit in and the whole machine stops dead, took me a while to realise that the weight of that key and the vibration of a big bit going through would turn the engine off resulting in you having to prize open the feed rollers and pull the bit out. annoying!

 

the feed roller speed is ment to be adjustable but i you turn the dial and its simply flat out or stop doesnt seam to be any thing inbetween.

 

apart from all these little things it is a good chipper the engine hasnt given me any trouble, ive had it nearly 2 yrs now, i think i would have spent that little bit more and bought another premier if i could but im not that bothered.

[Big 'Ammer]

Where and how do I do this? My groundies don't like using the machine as they're scared they'll stall it again... and I'll swear at them again... I don't find it a problem but they do..QUOTE]

 

Take the four screws out the top of the grey box on top of the control panel and inside is black box with loads of wires out the back, this is the control unit.

 

On the other end is a four digit display with a button under each digit.

 

Turn the machine on and it should light up. If it doesnt then the wirings faulty or the box is knackered.

 

Assuming it lights up, put it up to full speed and see what rpm its reading.

 

Turn it off and then with just the ignition key switched on, but machine not running, set the display to 10% less than full speed by holding each button down like you set a watch or alarm clock.

 

So if it reads 1300 set it to 1170 for example.

 

I found it worked more efficiently in the field set a bit lower but try it for yourself.

 

If in doubt ring Fletcher Stewarts workshop and they will explain it better than me, thats who I found out from.

 

When you put it back together wrap up the black box in some bubble wrap to protect it from vibration.

 

Hope this helps.

[Johny Walker]

Where and how do I do this? My groundies don't like using the machine as they're scared they'll stall it again... and I'll swear at them again... I don't find it a problem but they do..QUOTE]

 

Take the four screws out the top of the grey box on top of the control panel and inside is black box with loads of wires out the back' date=' this is the control unit.

 

On the other end is a four digit display with a button under each digit.

 

Turn the machine on and it should light up. If it doesnt then the wirings faulty or the box is knackered.

 

Assuming it lights up, put it up to full speed and see what rpm its reading.

 

Turn it off and then with just the ignition key switched on, but machine not running, set the display to 10% less than full speed by holding each button down like you set a watch or alarm clock.

 

So if it reads 1300 set it to 1170 for example.

 

I found it worked more efficiently in the field set a bit lower but try it for yourself.

 

If in doubt ring Fletcher Stewarts workshop and they will explain it better than me, thats who I found out from.

 

When you put it back together wrap up the black box in some bubble wrap to protect it from vibration.

 

Hope this helps.[/quote']

 

i take it you spoke to phil @ f/s

[Big 'Ammer]

Phil is the man!

 

They very kindly faxed me a wiring diagram when I had to replace the box and rewire the first 222 I had.

 

It was the shorter bodied one with the 2cyl ruggerini engine. The grey box was behind the panel near the hyd filter under the hopper on that one and a tw@t to get at!