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Topping out - good / bad practice?


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Thanks for the tips on the avatar pic fellas, i was a little low, but not quite as low as the camera angle makes it seem! I will bear all these points in mind when i next take a big top out. I got taught by some guys in the States to take the spliced end of your climbing line and tie a running bowline around the stem with a long tail on the spliced end that hangs down the stem at approx the length you wanna block it down after knocking the top out, then leave ur friction hitch attached but back it up with a figure 8 as u are only on 1 end of a doubled rope system and the friction hoitch experiences twice the load as normal. Once the top goes over you can desend on the line, kick in ur spkies, lanyard on and use the spliced hanging tail to slacken the running bowline and it falls to ur waist, just tighten it again and ur ready to roll. NO NEED TO UNTIE THE BOWLINE, BY TUGGING THE SPLICED END IT LOOSENS IT AND IT JUST SLIDES DOWN THE TRUNK TO YOU!

 

I got told this is safe as it prevents the 'circle of death' created by a wire flip line should a large stem split and pin you. Also provides a quick way of getting down in an emergency and also makes rescue simple.

 

Anyone use this method??

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Someone has made the point about boring a heavily leaning stem and cutting the holding strap to take a top out as a safe method when climbing, this isn't the case.

 

If you make a bore cut on a heavily leaning stem there is a chance the back of the tree will split downwards before you have a chance to cut the holding strap. When the stem splits downwards the top will go over and split part of the top will flip you and your flipline/climbing line off with the stem as well sending you hurtling toward the ground as your life flashes before your eyes.

 

Be very careful when using the boring cut on a leaning stem when climbing - it can go hellishly wrong.

 

 

 

 

i have never come accross a situation where i have had to use this method, as i said i guess this method could be used but thanks for the heads up

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Well, my apenny's worth....I usually bore ( letterbox ) the hinge on a thick stem anyway, makes it easier fr the groundstaff to pull ( or me t pushit off) an releases internal tension too -if its a split danger. Reduction cuts on the sides too-with sappy species ( or am I taking this too seriously ?) Cable strop on yr side D 's, work line near yr boots-just in case....

 

K

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Well, my apenny's worth....I usually bore ( letterbox ) the hinge on a thick stem anyway, makes it easier fr the groundstaff to pull ( or me t pushit off) an releases internal tension too -if its a split danger. Reduction cuts on the sides too-with sappy species ( or am I taking this too seriously ?) Cable strop on yr side D 's, work line near yr boots-just in case....

 

K

 

climbed for ten years and never bored into a stem up a tree while topping out, wouldnt feel comfortable doing it, but i agree with you on rip cuts for sappy stuff:001_smile:

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I always use my strop on the side D's was told in training about the potential hazards as you say.

 

Are there many case's where this has happened or is it just one of those it could happen things?

 

Anything that I think might tear I just cut the ears off and chase the hinge with the saw.

 

Only ever had really bad tear's when I couldnt be bothered doing proper gobs cutting the sides etc but they have been on really big, heavy, long laterals that I wasnt tied into anyway.

 

As someone else said if in doubt stop being a wuss and get up the top :001_tongue:

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I always use my strop on the side D's was told in training about the potential hazards as you say.

 

Are there many case's where this has happened or is it just one of those it could happen things?

 

Anything that I think might tear I just cut the ears off and chase the hinge with the saw.

 

Only ever had really bad tear's when I couldnt be bothered doing proper gobs cutting the sides etc but they have been on really big, heavy, long laterals that I wasnt tied into anyway.

 

As someone else said if in doubt stop being a wuss and get up the top :001_tongue:

 

be a wuus/lazy and knock them out big. the art of surge grasshopper:001_tongue:

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Thanks for the tips on the avatar pic fellas, i was a little low, but not quite as low as the camera angle makes it seem! I will bear all these points in mind when i next take a big top out. I got taught by some guys in the States to take the spliced end of your climbing line and tie a running bowline around the stem with a long tail on the spliced end that hangs down the stem at approx the length you wanna block it down after knocking the top out, then leave ur friction hitch attached but back it up with a figure 8 as u are only on 1 end of a doubled rope system and the friction hoitch experiences twice the load as normal. Once the top goes over you can desend on the line, kick in ur spkies, lanyard on and use the spliced hanging tail to slacken the running bowline and it falls to ur waist, just tighten it again and ur ready to roll. NO NEED TO UNTIE THE BOWLINE, BY TUGGING THE SPLICED END IT LOOSENS IT AND IT JUST SLIDES DOWN THE TRUNK TO YOU!

 

I got told this is safe as it prevents the 'circle of death' created by a wire flip line should a large stem split and pin you. Also provides a quick way of getting down in an emergency and also makes rescue simple.

 

Anyone use this method??

 

yes i use this system quite a lot especially on tall skinny conifers.another way is to place a secondary under the lowering block.. andy

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