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used saws


kfneill13
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I am more or less a beginner arborist, and wasn't sure how to feel about purchasing a used saw. Obviously watch out for broken down saws, but is there anything else to be careful of, and does anyone have a recommendation of what to go for?

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I am more or less a beginner arborist, and wasn't sure how to feel about purchasing a used saw. Obviously watch out for broken down saws, but is there anything else to be careful of, and does anyone have a recommendation of what to go for?

 

Obviously if you can try it you are better off ( as opposed to it being posted , ebay etc ) If it starts cuts and oils the next thing to try is will it stay running when its hot . Some saws will start and run for a short time but if they have low comp will refuse to run when they warm up . so get it hot and see if it still runs , idles etc .

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Suppose you could say I'm in the same boat as you. I have been in the trade for the past three years didn't even get to pick up a saw for the first six months !!

But now every saw I own has been handed down to me by my bosses father inlaw who used to fell commercially they had all been used and abused but even after sitting In the back of the shed for ten years, bit if a clean up and they were fine had to replace odd bits and pieces but long story short I would go for getting a used saw personally because I don't have the money for a brand new one if

 

 

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As others have said, try before you buy. Look out for siezed saws that have been freed by knocking the piston loose and everything else that will cost you money short term. If possible cut a piece of timber near to the full bar length. This will identify bent bars and those worn on one rail ie it will bind or cut curved.

 

Obviously check AV mounts, chain brake operation, chain for oiling etc Know the saw you're buying and pick every fault you find. If it needs a new bar and chain, use that drive down the price.

 

Be suspicious of a saw thats warm when you arrive, it may be a pig to start. Ask loads of questions as to its previous user. Lots of good, well cared for and under used saws about, but also some right dogs that have reached the end of their economic life.

 

Is there anyone more knowledgeable that can go with you?

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The tips you been given are spot on especially the bits about being warm when you get there. That is an old old trick lol also what Stubby said bout getting it hot is a very valid point as quite a few saws will start and run but when they get hot ya stop them then they not wanna start again. The guys said bout bar wear etc I'd add whip the chain of and check the sprocket for wear if it a newish one then if it badly worn then it might have been caned a bit or abused. All sprockets wear but I think it worth a look. As is the chain tensioner make sure it works and not been doctored just for your eyes coming to see it. Ask the seller what it been used for and if possible what type of wood it's cut ie. saws that have been used for only hardwood won't show the same signs of external wear as one used for predominantly softwood. I mean softwood has that sap crap and it highly abrasive at least that my experience any how and I cut a fair amount of that lol.

 

 

Sit down and think what you want the saw for. Think what size of saw you want (not just cc but hp and torq as well). What length of bar you want it to pull. Do you want a .325, 3/8th or .404?

 

 

Also I'd think if you see a saw fairly cheap be aware that there alot of fakes out there (more pertains to new saws) just because it is the right color don't mean it is the real deal. The real ones will have a small plate on them that if you get the number one of the guys on here will tell ya what the numbers mean ie date of manufacture etc.

 

 

I'm not trying to call into question your abilities or the like but please be aware that not all of the saws you'll come across are or were made for the pro user. Even Husqvarna and Stihl made higher cc saws but they were for the semi pro, home user or farm market (I won't include Jonsered as they are in essence Husqvarna and you ain't likely to come across a pre elux one). The older saws (well some) will have the mechanical chain brake on them (metal) and not the inertia one. They need setting for them to work properly but are perfectly safe etc and you can swap them for the inertia (there are comps that will make up one for you). Don't be put of by them.

 

 

There are trade offs that ya gotta make when not buying new and ya won't (unless your lucky and I hope ya are) get an all singing all dancing bells and whistles job if ya are offered one ask yourself why they selling it then ask them lol.

 

 

The arb guys on here will and I'm sure they will advise you on a good saw for the work your gonna undertake ie bar size weight to power ratio etc. If your gonna climb with it etc then they are the ones with the knowledge etc. If your looking at a pure felling saw (I'm working on the language thing guys lmao) then I and other cutters can try to advise you there.

 

 

Come back when you've got a few saw in mind and the pros and cons can be aired.

 

 

You may see a bun fight between us over Husqvarna versus Stihl etc but ignore that lol that just ........well older hacks arguing lmao but the advise will be sound

 

 

 

 

 

Best of luck I wish you well. Stay safe and keep cutting once ya get the saw chips in your blood you'll never wanna do anything else.

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If you buy a good quality brand like stihl, you will be able to get most parts if the saw should fail after a while. I buy second hand saws and in certain cases prefer the older models no longer available Ms260 MS361 and MS440 for example, as long as they are not shagged and at a good price, they are a good choice. These are of course pro saws and of a more durable build than homeowner and semi-pro/farm saws, so may have had a heavy life.

 

What do you want the saw for? this should narrow the hunt for which models you are looking for.

 

Just ask if you want more help:001_smile:

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