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a nice cut for hung trees


dadio
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Hello Daniel

 

well documented as always & good result :thumbup1:

 

Like to know what rope & pulley set up you had at the top?

 

Out of interest is there anything in the AS 2727-1997 guide around using a saw above shoulder height?

 

I used to feel more comfortable clearing all vegetation around escape routes. Did you not consider clearing the brush at the base of the tree?

 

Cheers

 

 

David

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Sometimes they end up vertical and you dont know where it will go. Safety issue.

 

Yes but in a forestry situation surely no one is going to climb if they can avoid it. In similar situations I have continued until either the tree has dislodged or if it sits straight put a step cut and pulled with a truck.

Anyway it's Daniels call.

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far safer ways of getting that tree down ie - rolling the hung up tree out using parbuckling type rope wraps, some small break cuts at the base of the tree, a well placed re-direct and a big winch or using heavy machinery to pull the tree out at the base directly away from the other propping tree (not a skid loader unless it's a small tree).

 

'a nice cut for hung trees' - it isn't even a 'cut' as such, it's more like the treework equivalent of russian roulette where a guy takes a stab in the dark as to how the tension and compression is laid down in the tree all the while standing almost directly underneath the entire weight of the stem.

 

if you value your legs and feet avoid this technique like the plague. Check out the action at 2.30, he didn't have a clue when that stem was gonna go. Most hung up tree (especially large open grown decidous trees) situations are very unpredictable which is why your default setting when tackling them should be to try and keep yourself out of the danger zone not actively step into it.

 

Well it's done now isn't it......and as we know Dan has done this 100s of times before, but if your gonna use this method why not trigger the explosive release with a winch or some kind of pull line keeping you well out the way of danger, or if you were that desperate to use a saw then use a long pole chainsaw to trigger the final release. Also, the second cut could've been notched at the top to allow for a slower more controlled break . Another point to consider is the danger can be species specific, Ash is notorious for barber chairing.

 

 

.

Edited by scotspine1
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Thanks Daniel,

Question; why not just keep sectioning it until the whole thing came out?

 

The property owner was a bit odd.. He loved each and every tree with a passion.... It cost him over 3x the $ to do it this way, but he was happy to pay, becasue he wanted to save the little tulip tree... The top was completely crushed and we cut it back past the rip, cut must have been 6=8" diameter, not one limb left. I was surprised to see the tulip sprout out the next year...

 

Two lines held the top, anchored to two separate trees.. Don't recall the exact configuration.. that was 2009...

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Hello Daniel

 

well documented as always & good result :thumbup1:

 

Like to know what rope & pulley set up you had at the top?

 

Out of interest is there anything in the AS 2727-1997 guide around using a saw above shoulder height?

 

I used to feel more comfortable clearing all vegetation around escape routes. Did you not consider clearing the brush at the base of the tree?

 

Cheers

 

 

David

 

Things are a little different over here... there are "guidelines", which apply to employees.... a company owner can do whatever he wants.. certainly no excuse for unsafe practices, however, I personally do not think its necessarily safer for me to follow the same rules in saw handling that apply to newbies... I was in good control of the saw at all times...

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Yes... we HAVE been through this before..

 

still a controversial cut.. that works perfectly every time...

NOTE: the only time the saw op would be in potential danger is if the piece is top heavy, which is extremely rare, but a most important consideration in such rare cases.. Certainly would then be good to trip the cut remotely for the inexperienced.. I haven't had one in a good while, but the cut could be angled to push the but away from the cutter, as it comes back and down..

 

 

far safer ways of getting that tree down ie - rolling the hung up tree out using parbuckling type rope wraps, some small break cuts at the base of the tree, a well placed re-direct and a big winch or using heavy machinery to pull the tree out at the base directly away from the other propping tree (not a skid loader unless it's a small tree).

 

'a nice cut for hung trees' - it isn't even a 'cut' as such, it's more like the treework equivalent of russian roulette where a guy takes a stab in the dark as to how the tension and compression is laid down in the tree all the while standing almost directly underneath the entire weight of the stem.

 

if you value your legs and feet avoid this technique like the plague. Check out the action at 2.30, he didn't have a clue when that stem was gonna go. Most hung up tree (especially large open grown decidous trees) situations are very unpredictable which is why your default setting when tackling them should be to try and keep yourself out of the danger zone not actively step into it.

 

Well it's done now isn't it......and as we know Dan has done this 100s of times before, but if your gonna use this method why not trigger the explosive release with a winch or some kind of pull line keeping you well out the way of danger, or if you were that desperate to use a saw then use a long pole chainsaw to trigger the final release. Also, the second cut could've been notched at the top to allow for a slower more controlled break . Another point to consider is the danger can be species specific, Ash is notorious for barber chairing.

 

 

.

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