Beginners climbing guide, hints, tips and general climbing techniques

[Thomas Flower-Ellis]

Hey,

 

Tried this system "low and slow" the other day using a certified HC system (all components configured according to Treemagineers/ DMM/ Teufelberger specs, as described on p.19 of "The Hitch Climber's Guide to the Canopy", here:

 

http://www.treemagineers.com/downloads/hitch_climbers_guide.pdfhttp://www.treemagineers.com/downloads/hitch_climbers_guide.pdf

 

Used a Ropeman 1 as the "floating prusik" on the O Rig. It rooocks.

 

The guide states that "the configured strength of the Floating Prusik system as shown is very high". Wouldn't this imply that it can be used as life support, when its purpose is as a means of returning from the outer extremities of the canopy in an otherwise standard work situation (i.e. without a redundant backup as per a rope access scenario)? Or am I missing something?

 

Grateful for input on this!

[dazbotee]

Hi guys. Great thread started for beginners like myself Adam thanks. Im looking for some advice on rope to buy?? I'm just over halfway through level 2 arb and forestry at Riseholme in lincoln and looking at getting a kit so I can practice climbing in my spare time. I've decided on my harness but need advice on rope. My instructor says New England are a safe bet so been looking at the high vee, problem i got is im looking at buying it over the next coupla days and with it being half term i cant ask my instructor so the question i got is what length 36 or 45m and spliced eye or not?? Plus does anybody out there know where you can go practice climbing around the north Lincolnshire area. Cheers Daz.

 

 

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[Tommy_B]

I'd say get the shorter one with an eye on it. 45m will be a bit long if you're just starting out imo

[Jamie M]

I agree with Tommy, get the shorter one. It can be a right pain to keep hauling 45m of rope round the tree for rope management purposes. I've got a 25, 37 and 45m ropes but mainly just use the 25m. Climb safely!

[Paulfreebury]

Same here go for the shorter, spliced, if your climbing on the three knot system the splice will act as a stopper knot,

[IsaacRob]

Hi Guys.

Been reading through this thread and it's been really informative and answered a few questions, and following advice have invested in a cambium saver.

However I am now looking for some more advice. I have been climbing on a prussic for the last year or so and have decided to move up to include some sort of shiny thing.

I am looking to upgrade to a SJ/LJ/ZZ in the possible future but at this stage the cost is the one thing that puts me off them.

I am currently in possession of some 13mm Yale XTC with no spliced ends.

I have a rough budget of around £60.

With those things in mind what would you people recommend?

Thanks in advance

[Dan Curtis]

For that budget I'd be looking at getting a hitchclimber or similar type pulley and some eye to eye fiction cord. You'll get used to pulling overhand and tending slack, which will set you in good stead for upgrading to a lj/sj/zz. If you find a good deal, you may also get a Pantin for that money, which will be a great help if you're climbing trees that warrant it.

 

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[John Shutler]

people seem to forget that there are plenty of cheap pullys out there for a simple vt setup, for example

 

Petzl Oscillante Swing Cheek Pulley | GO Outdoors

 

coupled with some hitch cord tied with double fishermans, a perfectly servicable vt setup for less than £15.00

[IsaacRob]

Hi Dan.

Thanks for that reply!

Looking at threads it does seem that with the Hitchclimber set-up it does require a spliced eye to attach or the friction hitch catches. This is my concern with this set-up.

[colemanjessenz]

i climb with double fishermans on my hc bro and it works fine . dont be put off by that . i have climbed with the petzl fixe pulley and the hc is much better and for my climbing style faster and safer