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Chainsaws for an Alaskan Mill - advice please.


Hymer
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The larger the chainsaw the better for milling timber. I was running 2x makita 9010 on a 56" double ended bar. When it was working it ran a treat but first one then the other went down with scored pistons (after 6 and 8 months respectively). This was running on Aspen2t so the mixture would not have caused it. They were nice saws to start even without the decompression button. In hindsight I should have taken a bit more care with them i.e. idling them every minute or so rather than just full revs until the plank was done. Having 2 saws going full tilt means they were probably revving too high to be healthy.

 

Since then I've gone back to a single powerhead (MS880) with a 36" Cannon bar and granberg ripping chain (still not totally sold on the Cannon bars. Have owned around 8 now and hard to tell how much longer wearing they are compared to say Oregon etc...). Have changed the sprockets (on chainsaw and bar) for 3/8 and have found milling is certainly smoother and a little quicker. The teeth may be narrower on a 3/8 pitch chain but you have more of them than a .404 chain so it is not simply a case of narrower chain = faster milling speed.

 

On the granberg chain I have found that if you take pains to sharpen it to 0 degrees on the clearing cutters (depth guage .030) and 20 degrees on the scoring cutters (depth guage .040) then the saw pulls you through the wood with minimum binding, maximum speed and smoothness. The more I mill with chainsaws the more I realise how the chain being sharp (whatever make of ripping chain) and bar not being worn can be the difference between a happy productive day and a miserable elbow aching day. Now I set the depth guages every time I'm sharpening ripping chain. Never used to as didn't want to waste any time but experience has taught me well... If I don't have time to get the chain right then I don't mill.

 

You can get away with a dull chain, slightly worn bar when doing normal cross cutting... milling you can forget it! You may squeeze out a few planks but it will be 3x the work for you and your chainsaw.

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Hi- just had another look at this thread and see no-one has mentioned the Stihl RCX chain for milling- thats all i use, and it is excellent. I find that green oak is the nicest thing to mill BTW, with the cleanest finish, and ash must be about the worst! I think the tighter the grain the better the saw copes, but sharpening accuracy and vigilance is the most important thing.

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I usually get it from a place down here in cornwall- Bodmin Garden Machinery stock it i think, and R.Sleep Ltd can get anything stihl related within a couple of days if they havent got it in stock.......but i am sure that Jonesie could help...

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