Rob D killing the art of sharpening

[agg221]

I won't ever be using one of these, a round file in the right hands will bring even the worst chain back in well under 10 minuets, grab a new file and its even quicker.

 

I reckon the masters of the art of sharpening will carry on and they will pass it on to the next generation of pro's.

 

Hmmm, I'd be interested in taking you on in this - me with the grinder, you with a hand file. 47" bar, ripping chain, one tooth taken out by a nail having lost about 1/8", all the other teeth to be taken back to exactly the same length....

 

I reckon I can do it in under 10mins from the word go, I suspect you couldn't shift that much metal in the same time.

 

Alec

[skyhuck]

Don't knock it until you've tried it Dave!

 

 

I still enjoy hand filing but I just need a guide every third of fourth sharpen to get everything back right again.... not too proud to admit it and I've been sharpening 10 years.

 

 

You have to have a very good eye to get a chain spot on in terms of tooth length and shape so each tooth is taking the same bite - alas I have not got that eye! This guide gets it pretty much spot on and you don't have to think about it other than for the first tooth.

 

I just don't see the problem that this is here to fix, sharpening by hand is a dodle, it takes minuets, I was amazed when I first came on here and read about people who change the chain, because sharpening takes so long. I even timed how long it took to sharpen my 66 with 25" bar, it took 2minuets.

 

I've worked with dozens of cutters and sharpening has never been an issue.

[Big J]

I just don't see the problem that this is here to fix, sharpening by hand is a dodle, it takes minuets, I was amazed when I first came on here and read about people who change the chain, because sharpening takes so long. I even timed how long it took to sharpen my 66 with 25" bar, it took 2minuets.

 

I've worked with dozens of cutters and sharpening has never been an issue.

 

It rarely is for general forestry work as the kind of rubbish that makes it into sawlogs rarely finds it's way into a forest grown tree.

 

For me, the main application for a grinder is sawmilling with an Alaskan mill. 50 inch bar (never used in UK forestry), tied into a mill limiting hand file access and the need to sharpen very often (I sharpen every two-three tanks whilst milling) means hand filing is a ball ache. For the sake of £30, it's a cracking tool to have in the armoury.

[Pat Ferrett]

A vice bolted on the chipper might be a better investment of £50

[Tom D]

I had a go with Big J's sharpener, it was quick but it doesn't leave them as sharp as a file. I didn't rush out and buy one.

[skyhuck]

I'm talking tree surgery cutters, not forestry.

[agrimog]

the whole point of the grinder is consistency of teeth, Dave can you guarentee everyone of you teeth are identical, this is what I look for in my chains, it gives a near perfect cut when milling, I've been sharpening chains for near 4o years and reckon to be pretty good at it, but theres no way I can match the accuracy of a well set up mechanical grinder, it comes down to horses for courses, you wouldnt use one of theseif you were cutting in the woods all day, but you might when you got home to true everything back up, milling, yes definately, arborial work, probably not one or two sharpens a day wont justify it, but as Rob says dont knock it till you try it, I think you might be surprised

[slack ma girdle]

I won't ever be using one of these, a round file in the right hands will bring even the worst chain back in well under 10 minuets, grab a new file and its even quicker.

 

I reckon the masters of the art of sharpening will carry on and they will pass it on to the next generation of pro's.

 

I was in your camp Skyhuck, but i have changed. No matter how good you are with a file, you with NEVER be as consistant as the Granberg.

Move to the dark side, you know it makes sense.

 

Sent from my Galaxy arse using tupping talk.

Check ALL the simple things first.

[skyhuck]

Maybe for milling there is a need for this, but for me for tree work hand sharpening is perfect.

[treequip]

Don't knock it until you've tried it Dave!

.

 

I agree, I also prefer hand sharpening and I sharpen by hand by default but if you have a mullered chain on a big saw these little grinders are spot on for taking a couple of MM off.

 

They have a place in tree surgery where you are more likley to find something thats not timber inside a stem.