Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

A few shots of the swedish cut


Ian Flatters
 Share

Recommended Posts

Log in or register to remove this advert

Spent a little bit of time tonight putting this together. I was talking about the swedish cut on the treehouse and a said i had some footage of it being done on a job i did a while back.

 

Hope you enjoy.

 

 

Is it a "Humbolt" notch with an over cut on the top?

 

What is the advantage of the over cut?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it a "Humbolt" notch with an over cut on the top?

 

What is the advantage of the over cut?

 

Basically its a tep cut but with a humbolt face, when moving chogs it makes it much easier if you require a step cut and makes it much safer than cutting straight through at a slanted angle. Josh had it in his video a year or so ago and was good enough to explain its mechanics :thumbup1:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Ian. Can't see the vid on my phone but it sounds like a cut we have been using this summer. Do you mean a face cut, then saw all the way though the face and small.step.cut on the underside?

 

That's a very useful cut for pulling big chunks off and ideal for verticle.speedlines

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Ian. Can't see the vid on my phone but it sounds like a cut we have been using this summer. Do you mean a face cut, then saw all the way though the face and small.step.cut on the underside?

 

That's a very useful cut for pulling big chunks off and ideal for verticle.speedlines

 

Yep thats the one :thumbup1: Its on my Jerry B video apparently and it goes into detail about what size chunks to drop to get them to rotate to land flat. Havent got round to watching the dvds yet tho.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I could see it being of some help on very large chunks, but don't think it was really needed on the size of timber in the vid.

 

Its useful on those sized chunks too. Instead of doing smaller chogs you can drop longer sections without the need of using a pull line to overcome the force required to break a hinge, thus leaving the groundy to be able to chip and log, not remove a line and tie it back on your line.

 

Also save a lot of used energy in comparison to a step cut as it removes a lot of handling of the section.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  •  

  • Featured Adverts

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.