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Timberwolf 125 owners


testcricket01
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Just been changing my blades on my new 125 and i just wanted to no is there any tips hw to get to the 2 arkward bolts its the furthest bolt in on each bolt that is a right pain to get to. I no ideally you should remove the roller springs lift up the rollers and place a wedge of wood to keep the rollers out the way but realisticlly no one is going to do all that so any tips guys? Or is it just arkward fullstop

 

Thanks

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Just been changing my blades on my new 125 and i just wanted to no is there any tips hw to get to the 2 arkward bolts its the furthest bolt in on each bolt that is a right pain to get to. I no ideally you should remove the roller springs lift up the rollers and place a wedge of wood to keep the rollers out the way but realisticlly no one is going to do all that so any tips guys? Or is it just arkward fullstop

 

Thanks

 

the 2 bolts arnt that awkward if you remove the roller springs lift up the rollers and place a wedge of wood to keep the rollers out the way. its the work of a moment

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Ha funny Iv just come in from dealing with this very situation, I have a speacial t50 star bit which is more like a giant allen key as opposed to the socketry set, you can do the bolts easily without having to lift the rollers. it is far more slim so can get into the corner easily.

Whilst on the subject is there a 'correct' way to stop the flywheel spinning when undoing the bolts, I just wedge a stick inbetween the blade and the thick plate which the blade access covers bolt to. Didn't know if there was a better way?

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I swapped Allen key bolts for torx/star bolts and think they were much better. But do be patient and clean the heads really well before trying to undo. They are a real bugger if they get chewed before becoming loose.

And I as far as I remember it was only a few seconds to undo the springs and lift the motor to stick a piece of wood in there. You can have a quick look round and clean too.

You'll soon get used to it.

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James, listen to John and Huck.

 

You have to lose the springs and raise the block to full height so you can de-gunk the slides and grease them anyway. You can't get to the grease nipple on the LHS properly without doing it. You should be doing this every blade change.

 

Small jemmy, felling lever and a block of wood cut to size, and as John says it takes literally seconds.

 

Make sure you wedge it safely though - that block is heavy.

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Ha funny Iv just come in from dealing with this very situation, I have a speacial t50 star bit which is more like a giant allen key as opposed to the socketry set, you can do the bolts easily without having to lift the rollers. it is far more slim so can get into the corner easily.

Whilst on the subject is there a 'correct' way to stop the flywheel spinning when undoing the bolts, I just wedge a stick inbetween the blade and the thick plate which the blade access covers bolt to. Didn't know if there was a better way?

 

Im told there is holes in the fly wheel for this alot of guys stick a combi spanner thro these holes to stop it :thumbup1:

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