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Blocking down a stem


Mr Ed
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I would do it slightly differently. First I would tie in to the main stem so i could swing out of the way of the cut section. I dont like being trapped in one place when there is timber swinging around. Secondly I would use a step cut so that the piece breaks sooner, reducing the dynamic loading. With a high anchor point, after putting in the step cuts, the climber can ascend a couple of feet and snap it off. I wouldn't use a redirect pulley for any timber lowering, and would attach a block with the sling around the stem of the tree, not on a side branch.

Other than that, exactly as per photo!

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I'd assumed that once the section was in motion, the groundy would let it run all the way to the deck. The section would swing out and hit the floor before it could swing back in. If that's the case, then the position is fine, number of wraps to let it run is fine, top anchor never sees any real load and is fine, everythings fine.

 

What's not fine is that there aren't enough cups of tea in that picture. Trees nearly done, fell the stick out, get the tea in.

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Having worked in two very different markets I know first hand that what goes in one place certainly does not work in another. I used to work in the San Francisco Bay Area where Deva lives and works. Out there, most of the big trees I did were over structures and on steep hills where chunking wood was usually not an option. We used a Hobbs lowering device for most of our jobs and it paid for itself many times over. I have never been fortunate enough to use a GRCS although I did get to meet its maker at a job Frans put together. I find that one of the advantages of a roping device that can take up tension is that with a slight face cut the rope can help you pull the piece over. I always pu a face cut in on 4' or longer pieces, then had my guys crank it up as I cut my back cut. When my holding wood was parallel I would clip the saw to my side and push the piece over. I got quite good at it and it usually went quite smooth.

 

Now where I live I just tell people there will be some lawn damage, which no one here seems to mind, and then bomb everything to the ground. It ain't pretty but folks around here are unlikely to pay for a day of technical rigging.

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When needed i take a 'tire spoon' maid for a semi-truck. It is a super tough lever; with a flattened end; that fits in a kerf nicely. i kinda bounce on the end to get bodyweight impact X leverage length. But, at the same time i add a push to the top of the load; of course it is the bar i'm pushing off of; so that push counts 2x. Because neither the bar nor the load is an immovable anchor(edit: well they both are anchor points when top isn't moving/so can input force but not distance; but at action/movemeant both are points that distance/not just force can be input into; both disatnces going into load after leveraged multiplier); therefore both are distance/force input points. So i have (2x push + body impact)X leveraged distance from compressed part of hinge as pivot. At the same cost of effort of pushing against top while on 'ground' and the equal opposite of that push + bodyweight going into immovable anchor/ground and not as a distance quantity on the load. This is usually enough to pitch something or force a strong hinge.

 

If slick or tapered; i might cheat and cut a small humboldt as a pushoff point.

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I would of thought that crumpettes would look more like an english muffin.

 

Depending on disposal and area, They want firewood,

give them firewood.

 

If you got a mini loader and space give them 6 footers.

 

If you got the JD 624, Dump the tree with hot tea.

 

I love mint tea with verbaena and honey.

EnglishMuffin-790256.jpg.1fa631733c5f913684cae6502da40f58.jpg

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