Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

TreeSpyder

Member
  • Posts

    61
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by TreeSpyder

  1. As we can see, this depends on specific uses, strategies, styles and strength needed for a particular 'trick'. So, within a specific range of equipment, should have a range of fitting ropes etc. to task. In this working environment, durability is high on my list. Also, hi tensile, low elasticity is not always best. Elasticity can be preloaded with tension, and/or used to dampen impact forces to supports during rigging. If you have 10k line, and same braid and materials in a 20k line(or as same, 10k line used in pulley on load); you will get more elasticity, at a given loading; from the 10k line. And, if the 10k line is reeved thru a pulley that is on the load, each leg is loaded to the same percentage of tensile strength as 20k line with load on it(without pulley). So, over kill on tensile to load ratio can give less use able line if elasticity is valued in scenario. Then, too can load cheaper lines, and wear them on lighter loading, save more expensive
  2. That would be 12:1. The stepped/ tiered config for pulleys, limits movement more; than if pulling dual pulleys or pulleys to drop eyes of other pulleys etc. For tree force levels, and not using tree as anchor, would place a support leveraged higher in equal / opposite direction of rig pull to another anchor. Can '2 Hand' rig for more input force. Anchor parts like green webbing would be leveraged less if 'teepee' was not so flat, or even to 2 eyes of end of sling. If pulling to upward (or downward) angle, would make sure at least 1 turn of green webbing was seated to spar/ anchor in front and not to loading pull. In end when goes to tie off, should seize fast where doesn't spread apart, then give to Half Hitches. Halves have better/more contact area than fig.8 as stop. 1st half should seat square to stop, then 2nd same behind to keep first fair and square. Fig.8 looks like better stop, and does have more weight. But bulk of fig.8 is not where it wo8uld be stop, and the stop side has open side as leads to fig.8 bulk. When he is binding the spreads apart, this is giving more tightness, and would finish doing that, rather than leave spread. Nice barefoot walk though!
  3. Can make multiple loops, use as Bend, Bend several lines to 1. Use as 'handle' for bend point to leverage line after line is hyper tightened later (to tighten down, sweat more line, guide in lowering etc.). We all used more loaded on loop for 3.1 etc., inline pull, but should realize this is a compromise from optimal pull perpendicular to line on loop and not to greater loading than legs of line on either side of eye.
  4. i tie as in first vid; only make a Round Turn around hand to make slipknot, to then thread the Bitter End and finally invert to make familiar rabbit around tree form. Then give tuck for Yosemite Tie off type finish. The slip knot method is / was a recommended trick to know for getting self rescued off of ledge you are hanging on. If lucky, someone could lower lie down form overhead cliff or helicopter. While holding on with one hand, proposed survivor would draw line around then=m selves with freed hand, and roll to form slip knot, feed bitter end around Standing and thread thru Slip Knot, and back to self, and pinch together. At this pint could pull line, have line pulled, maybe even fall, and if still pinch Bitter back to self as reeves thru slip knot inverting to bowline. could be alright. i find it easier to throw bight of line around target, for more weight in lighter line. Usually then place Half Hitch to run inline with spar, then another flip around target for running bowline as pre-scribed. Running Bowline should pull perpendicular to spar, with inline back of loop as stop. Stop/ back of loop not inline when pull is not perpendicular to host/ spar. For pairallell to spar / inline to spar pull, should precede with half hitch (or marl) so that the stop of the Half Hitch is leg going to Running Bowline, so primary stop is inline with primary load pull on Standing. Rope only resists/ supports on inline axis (and only in tension direction). This is why ABoK breaks inline and perpendicular hitches to spar/rail into 2 separate chapters, the configurations are similar enough that these chapters are consecutive, but separate just the same. DBY walk thru slip knot method of tyng DBY Olde Behind Back gif, showing ease of tie DBY
  5. It is kinda a VT with an Sailor's Gripping finish to make self tending to me. i would try straight Sailor's Gripping Hitch or Icicle, to get similair effect, without he 'play' of VT.
  6. Thanx, meant to include this Spanish Burton 'Family'
  7. Pulley systems have been called "flexible levers" (even though they are inline devices that increase powers arithmetically, not geometrically). But, we can get more out of them like non-flexible levers) by compounding them (for a more geometric increase) and by making them more of a closed system (in some of the parts). The Spanish Burton 'Family' does this with separate lines, but shared sheaves. So isn't so much like one whole system compounding on another, for the separate systems aren't necessarily discernible as fully separate systems on their own. This (below) goes on to show more than 21xEffort; so that a 100#Man with a 50#ArmPull has the potential to pull 3700#(for edumacational and discussion purposes only-Do Not Try this at Home-okay, who's 1st?) MyTreeLessons.Com/Flash/pulley21xRig.Swf As any potential thus, it will not be reached, for as the multipliers of the full efficiencies of the pulleys compounds, so does the their reciprocal inefficiencies become compounded. Like 7 sheaves in series will drop you down to about 75% of potential, even if the sheaves are a fairly high efficiency like 95% each. For, there is no 100% efficiency at a point of conversion(pulley, pivot etc.), or there would be perpetual motion. So, at a conversion point, everything is broken into it's efficiency and it's reciprocal inefficiency (as cost of the conversion).
  8. Ummmmmm; seems it must be an acquired taste at that!
  9. A small grease smear on back of steering wheel can go a long way too. In college we would catch someone in the shower, quietly block shower door, and in concert flush all toilets, turn on all cold water in sinks and showers. Gets real hot with no escape but to dive at faucet and turn off. Of course if ya catch'em with shamppoo streming down face... Take out sink trap so as one runs water they get soaked. Fill manilla envelope with shaving cream, slide under locked door and stomp on envelope.. Short out kill switch, so saw won't start. Send new guy for a sky hook 1 day, then next day try to get him to go get a gravity bender (rope) for speedline. Gravity bender because it changes the path of fall, he won't go and is wrong again.. Lineburger cheeze in heating vents. Change some druggies cell fone so that when s/he speed dials connection, s/he gets cop shop, pretty soberizing effect.... We paid for a 'male stripper' to come dance in a bar for buddy's birthday one year. Just gave some guy in gay bar money to come and do it (my buddy said they were real polite there, everyone came up and offered to push in his stool and he didn't even want to sit down!). rock in hubcap place board over desk drawyer, flip over, and reinstall Remove hinge pins from cabinet door,a nd then close it up jsut right, best if it has a magnetic latch for a little more hold. Take a large cable tie (like a plastic wire tie only larger and longer); then clamp it around drive shaft and make sure it will only slaps metal frame. Makes a lotta racket as shaft spins and no harm. Once't i even then placed one on axle to do same, then another inside wheel. Guy stopped 3 different times, very ticked off; was all ways a butt hole to everyone, so very, very deserving.
  10. The Cow Hitch is a Girth/Choke Hitch (a double Girth a Prussick), only a Cow has pull only on 1 leg. This means that the Cow has more load on that 1 leg, but also means the other leg could be weaker. But, then also the 'free' leg/ bitters should be locked down. so, a series of slings or lines could make up an anchor, best one taking the brunt of the loading impacts. If removing tree anyway, i'd make some small humboldts to bed sling/line in. As far as a Clove giving less deformity/ strength loss to the Standing (Tension) Part, on a larger mount; i'd say that could be true; iff the pull was perpendicular (as opposed to inline pull on tree etc.) to the host/mount/spar. The Cow or Girth, can give varying amount of deformity by how the unloaded leg(s) bend the Standing Tension Part. In that model, the choke bending the fully loaded Standing would be less loaded than the Standing itself (up to 120 degrees bend, like pulling backwards against the choke could actually make the Standing Tension Half the choke...). But, pulls on a Clove or Cow up a tree/ inline(as opposed to perpendicular pull on tree etc.) with tree/spar/mount could very well make Clove give more deformity/weakness(?). A timber with 7 turns is good, but i think half that many as well; the primary thing would more be that part of the Bitter/Tail be trapped at a convex position opposite the loading, just past halfway. Visualizing that the front of the works pulls away, and this portion pinches into (the host mount/spar/tree). Just past halfway places that trapping where it would lock into the rise at highest / most equal and opposite tension on any rotation. A fair linear round turn/spiral before is very good. 7 turns probably a little overdone, but more fairly places at least part of the bitters in this best area (just past opposite of the initiating pull). Baby Holding Bus shows turns as friction to reduce force flowing into Bitters, Then trap that reduced force under as much force as possible to secure. i've done as Bodean, like the branch collar as dawging for sling to lock into. i do kinda like a Cow with a Round Turn rather than a Turn around the Standing, then lock the tail down too. A girth/Choke is likewise better with Round Turn rather than simple Turn around Standing(s). 1 Turn bends/deforms/weakens but more Turn(s) can restabilize some of that deformity (if correctly applied) like a Double or Triple Noose/Scaffold is sooooo much better than a simple Noose. If using a Whoopie, i like primary loading on adjustable leg, so that primary load is on a different point each time. Then, might extend off fixed end other sling to then choke back the Whoopie loaded eye, and then adjust Whoopie, so now have larger Whoopie. Of curse if the other sling is stronger, it can take brunt of loading. But a good size Whoopie (thick with adjustmeant range of 3'), with a 3', 6',9' etc. Spanset (type) slings as add-ons can take ya far (large range of adjustability with 3' range of adjustability and 3' incremeants in slings...).
  11. The stick trick werks cuz you are making a 90deg. angle with 2 sides equal(to your arm length). Thus a 45degree angle, that you then extend the legs of to the height of tree and length from tree (equal). i think it comes out better measuring (with stick on side) to ear, to offset this a little bit. That can work because to properly sight the 45deg to the top of the tree, your eye would have to be at the far corner (your armpit). But,this is best for vertical tree. Ones with forward lean, you'll be sighting for height from ground, to determine height from stump. Thus the greater the forward lean, the greater the error. For leaning forward (or backwierd) very much it can be better to look at tree not from front, but from side, with stick. Stand away from it, raise up stick at arm's length, tip of stick sighted with top and mark hinge area with thumb on stick. Then, keeping thumb lined up with cut, tilt top to site where it should fall by siting and keeping same angles as originally. The 45deg angle is also key in other 'home remedies' of bending over and looking through legs, siting in pan of water etc.
  12. i keep trying to say it better; for it is how everything works. 2legs of pull place 2x Load at each pulley everytime. But not all of it pulls on the pulley, some pulls across the pulley to the other leg of line. So it is just a question of how much of the 2xLoad potential; pull on the pulley. The cosine scale is the Zer0 to 1 percentage type scaling we use. So can take Zer0 or all of full potential of forces(2x Load). So, 2x Load X Cosine; gives this percentage of the total force of 2 legs of line on the pulley. We don't use sine, because that is across force. The 2 legs of line will center the sling between them with their across force, because the sling doesn't resist there sideways (sine of angle) forces. If the sling doesn't resist sideways force, it doesn't incur the forces. So half the spread is how far off the lines to self centering pulley are from the all important inline with the sling we must calculate from. So we take 2x Load X cosine of half the spread of legs of line to the pulley to get force on pulley.
  13. i like trees; but think others are more apathetic and less all-true-istic, not even real-istic! .
  14. Rope arcs happen inside of knots whar ya can't see'em. But, they also happen in rigging. Because a pulley has 2 legs of loaded line on it, it has a potential loading of 2x Load. But, because the sling/rope holding the pulley, only resists inline not perpendicular tensions, we only need to calculate the inline forces of the rope angle from the sling X 2 legs. This means that we take 2x Load X cosine of half the spread. And we are done. This also explains a pulley with weight on a horizontal clothesline, or leveraging tighter by swigging or sweating purchases. For, this is the same math, in reverse, we are now just initiating force by the bend, not the end, into the system. Thus; if we place 175 degree spread in angle box, we will see very little load on pulley; so pulley has leverage over the line at that angle. Thus, if we anchor leg and pull bend, we can incite those kind's of forces. The calculator crunches by radians, so calcs by hand in degrees all the way through might be slightly different. For code testers/breakers i allowed negative/floating load weights, but not angles< Zer0 nor > 180. Numbers are assuming that preserving all forces, none lost to frictions elastic distance/stretch etc. calcPulleyLoadings.swf
  15. A few things to remember is that you can't just beat force; you pay or equate for every drop of it; it is never created nor destroyed; just transferred etc. Also, that the minimum loading/base is the load itself, and this is at inline. Anything not inline is leveraged. Wood, is basically inflexible. 100# inline at 10' or 20' is the same. But, at any angle the distance makes a difference. What we do; is calculate maximum/potential loading; which is perpendicular/90 degrees. So, 100# at inline is 100#; but it's maximum potential is the 100# X the distance 10' or 20' etc. For, all angles less than 90/full potential; we multiply the cosine of the angle X the potential. The cosine of 90 is 1. So, full potential X 1 gives full potential. The cosine of lesser angle is less than 1. Like, .5 for 30 degrees. So, 20' X 100# gives 2000'#s potential X .5 gives the leverage at 30 degrees. (notice that at 1/3 tilt, half the leverage potential is achieved!). Also, at 30 degrees, the 20' spar reaches 10' from it's base! Flexibles like rope is different. You have to take the cosecant or 1/sin of the angle X the loading. Length doesn't matter. The angle is the leg from inline. So, if suspending a weight between 2 poles; we cut the load in half(2 supports); then calculate the angle of each leg from inline/ minimal loading. So, in a perfectly centered weight between 2 poles; that would be an angle of half the spread of the lines. If 1 is higher than the other and or not centered weight; then we calculate half the load per leg; of angle from inline(given poles are higher than the load). If, the load is on a pulley; then the lines could equalize; if not, they could carry different tensions; but would try to equalize by adjusting their angles to overall minimum loading. Impacting is different. It is weight X speed (distance over time). So, i try to pretension lines; then tip load slowly over into them; then give wide face and try to make the load itself, give final pretension to the line as it tips on hinge. i also favor slowly pulling over the load with rope etc. to force a stronger hinge; as well as acting as final pretightening. Note the line only tightens more as the load's hitchpoint moves away from the support point. Sometimes i will even make the load tip left against a right support, so the line tightens up so much; it hen pulls the load right; as i also adjust the backcut to allow. this gives a tighter line, than if ya just tipped load to the right many times. Hope this helped. Some call the cosine of 90 Zer0; but ultimately we mean to find at what point leveraged fully = 1 (0 or 90 depending on how ya look at it). Then work the angles of part of a multiplier of 1 to find the leverage and reach of the spar at a given angle. Also, 100# on the end of a 20' spar is a perfect example. Real life is length from hinge as pivot to the Center of Gravity X the weight. -KC
  16. If mounted to a krab first; i'd go with a triple noose/scaffold/anchor to self to form eye. i'd go that way so if it jammed i could work it off krab and free up. Much stronger than Bowline(sheetbend to self to form eye; but also changes the hitch to a half hitch); and probably take more dynamic forces. If i was afraid of not being able to free it up; i'd go with DBY. Note, Double ring(not double eye) bowlines are stronger and absorb more dynamic forces(i think); but; due to the eye pulling at a higher point; it has more leverage to invert the works into a slip knot and capsize, so must be dressed well; especially in stiffer lines. If tying to a perpendicular pull on a spar; i'd go with a binding knot. This is kinda like a constrictor; the last tuck goes in the same place; but the 2nd to last goes over, not under(so you don't quite make a clove first). Almost same security, with no jamming; a real favorite of mine. On an inline/lengthwise pull on same; i'd precede whatever finish with a half hitch; and try to dog each of these rings somehow. (Note that in the ABoK bible {everyone has one wirte?} that lengthwise and perpendiucalr pulls are 2 seperate and distinct chapters; right nest to each other) The finish might be a running DBY. Note the Double Bowline (2 rings to lock, not 2 eyes) is about 5% stronger than a regular Bowline(which is about 65% tensile efficiency). But, a running Bowline determines it's strength differently; and can vary by teepee. Sorry if, once again, so many answers; but for me it is dependent on other variables in equation/ know static answer. Also, i exercise the decisions in the art to not only accomplish the task, but be more fluent with it; and see more things in it. Kinda a 'you get out of it what you put into it deal'. When there is time or folks to share with; i invert the deal; to make the art the target, and the task the secondary payoff; rather than the other way around. Perhaps i'm jest lysdexic like that. But, many times the real payoff/ what i really carried with me to the next day after the check was spent; is/was what i L-earned. i've all ways about blown whatever monie$ somehow; so this other has been my $avings account somehow; and more of what i had to 'loan' to bail someone else out. Okay; it is safe to come out; i'm off the soapbox for again... edit; timber is okay; especially on spar with bitters finishing upabout 7o'clock from the initial pull of 12 o'clock. Killick/timber precedd by half hitch is more secure and better on inline pull on load/device.
  17. What length of line elasticity was absorbing the hit?
  18. i like mine in climbing mostly; and speak in felling terms of where they are most understood; and where i saw them first in Dent's bible. i spent many daze and hours troubling over his drawings and explanations to figure out what he was doing. then took the whole model up in the air and tested it out on sweeping horizontal limbs sidewards out from over an obstacle. Upstairs the loads are smaller, and more likely to fall clear of ya. The theories work by maximizing the forces set against ya; so at full leveraged/horizontal are maximized. Though i've controlled it on the ground; i don't outrightly recommend it except in visuals of how to usher such forces in the air; partially because of that page you quote. But, i have had fun with it; and consider it a Nautral adjunct to the Tapered Hinge; in that as the Tapered of 1 side maximizes the tension forces, so the dutch of one side maximizes the push forces; and together they maximize the tourque forces by operating in opposing directions on the hinge lever. MyTreeLessons.Com/images/Dutch Climber.JPG MyTreeLessons.Com/photogallery/hinge with Dutch Step and tapered hinge.jpg MyTreeLessons.Com/photogallery/hinge with dutch step and tapered hinge extended .jpg
  19. Wow, those are some scary numbers! i like Fisherman's/Noose/Scaffold/Overhand/Anchor to self to form Eye whatever ya call it with 3 turns. i think the more turns the more security; and perhaps the better dynamic absorption. i've never had one come undone; but that probably partially depends on setting and rope choice. Those worried, might make a halyard; whereby you make a Fisherman's and fold the bitters back over the last Turn and under at least 1 of the previous Turns. i'd think more line in the system would give less drama on dyno; but then doubling it over like we do in DdRt would give more by virtue of more tensile strength to the same load/ giving less elasticity. So there is more shock close to your TIP; especially in DdRT. i'm also thinking/hoping the human body; being not totally solid as a lead weight would not give as high numbers(?).
  20. To me these are a kinda binary(computer) or at most tri-fold(Goldilocks) examples of mechanics... Iff the backcut has proceeded enough where the tree is 'breathing'/alive/ready to move; then the hinge/ face machine is loaded with force. If something is loaded with force; that force is either push/compression or pull/tension. In the loaded hinge/face scenario; closed is push and open is pull. But, everything is in equal and opposite forces. So, if pushes and pulls are in opposite directions and inline; they remove each other's power/negate it/neutralize each other. But, if these opposing forces are not inline; we can have more power. If the non-inline opposing forces are do not resist bend; they add to each other (rope on pulley); but if the opposing non-inline forces are on something that resists bending they multiply each other(tourque). A full face kerf/close can give hop in small stuff; but can cause barberchair in larger and brittler. But, If 1 side of face closes and the other is open; we offer 1 side as relief; so less chance of hop or barberchair; the force has another path of relief to go. But also; Instead of both sides of hinge pulling to steer(open) or both sides of hinge/face pushing to steer(closed) generically; with 1 side open/1 side closed we have 1 side pushing up; as the other side is pulling down. More of a non-inline opposite direction of force through a device that resists bending scenario(tourqued use of the forces). Also, when we pull from both sides of hinge at once (generic both sides open) part of each force cancels the other. Not so in the specialized/non-generic example. Also, when we make 1 side closed; 1 side open; we must make the lean side closed. For, that is what gives the harder compression push to center; and the harder pull to center (in concert) on the opposing side. Much, much less force; if the control/non-lean side closes first. For these are responding forces; to the initiating force of the length/angle of the CG. There is another compression point, as pivot; in the hinge. But, this can be differentiated by it has more force. but, then also as the face close on lean side becomes the more loaded position; it becomes the pivot itself. And, nothing is more powerful; than a pivotal change; for it takes the given distance/angles of load and control on either side of the pivot; and gives more to the control side; as it takes it from the load side (or vice versa); thus giving a compound change to the all important ratios. But, this close 1 side first stuff can be dangerous, especially in felling sizes, leverages and stiffnesses. So, i most like it in climbing. A near vertical limb can kinda work; but a horizontal limb to be swept horizontally (making lean side of equation downward); has more leveraged load. For, in these things we set the whole formula on it's ear; the more force against us (weight/length/angle); the more powerfully it works (up until the forces violate the constitution of the spar). Sometimes, i've been able to get a tree or limb to go to the right around an obstacle; hit the close in face on right, then go to the left. But, not always. The close in face on one side is like hitting an obstacle on that side; and tree pushes across to the other side. Only, that obstacle is in the face.
  21. TreeSpyder

    kerf cut

    Center punching hinge through face (or same missing in rot) is supposed to take out the stiffer area/ leave the younger/springier outside of hinge to flex. This outside area will then be thicker too. Because the tree will still weigh same and be at same angle; therefore will start falling at the same hinge strength. Less noticeable an effect on tapered agaisnt side lean This thicker hinge will also have more side to side control/have more power at the leveraged outer reaches. Soren Ericson(sp?) and others have also used this technique for preserving more wood/less splintering at the fat/money end of the felled timber. Kerfing across full length is snap cut; across full facing is similair/ both giving early close. Also risking Barberchair in full length/weight loads. Kerfing 1 side of face, offers the other side still open as relief, and thus far less risk. Don on the control side/away from side lean; gives nominal effect; as the weight isn't slamming that side close for the responding effect. Done on lean (or down side in horizontal limb in climbing); gives harder close on the lean side. this gives a responding push over(or up). Seeing as the control side is still open; it is pulling at the same time. Between the 2 we have a push on one oend of the lever/hinge; and a pull on the opposite end/in opposite direction; for more of a tourqued adjustmeant i think. More of what Dent's hinging bible refers to as a swing dutchman i believe. This is the outer edge/ tricky stuff; especially in full size felling. i prefer it in rigging and limbing. These trix can also be used in bucking quiet well. As in: http://www.mytreelessons.com/Dutch Push in 1 side of Face .
  22. i think the hitch is combing out twists from the ran length of the line; that end up below the hitch. If, there is resistance on the end of the line, and/or the total resistance of the hanging weight of the line; is greater than the twist force, the twists trap in the line/do not freely twist off. Have you tried laying the line out, so there is no resistance for twists to play off the free end; and scraping it against a gaunltet of close posts twisting it to comb out twists off the free end? or lay totally out/no resistance; tie off one end and have large man (with good beer supply) bump a tight prussik down the full length a few times to comb out twists and off free end. i purposefully twist ropes on storage... In coiling; lay out rope perfectly flat and free with no resistances, knots, twists, curves etc. rubbing nothing but ground. Then twist/roll rope between fingers a half revoulution before each turn goes to coil. Think in imagery of the rope wants to twist and you are forcing it not to, and sending twists maid off the free end. Also, imagine that if the resistances on the free end are greater than the resistances in finger twistings, the twists will work into the coil, and not off the free end. In baging/flaking i grab from left, then right out of free flowing line; into the pile. But, i twist/roll rope between fingers at each grab; but left may roll line clockwise; while right rolls line counter clockwise; to cancel each other neutral into the pile. Even doing this right a few times might not solve; until the memory of 'abuse' forgives you. Hanging; gives even more freedom to let twists walk off line; as there is no ground friction. But, combing hitch down with full weight; is a pretty harsh combing. Try to have end free, and try to have groundie below you work twists off if end of rope is on ground; thereby resisting twists walking off free end. Some ropes seem to have more twisting, some hitches seem to give more. Especially VT; some fellows give counter twists to braids, to cancel above tails/twists.
  23. i think most friction hitches of new desent are of 2 stages. The coil on top for a 'sure' stop; and a preceding strategy to make it failsafe and buffer loading to the coil; to keep the coil response in it's more friendly range/powerband. i see what ya mean about the finger trap of the VT (braids?); but i think that is just stage 1 of the mechanics. In most other hitches stage 1 here is some sort of half hitch to choke the host line. Then, after stage 1, the remaining force needed for support is passed on to stage 2- the coil(generally 4 uninterrupted turns). Mind you for descent; this should be in DdRT, not SRT. In DdRT the hitch is only half loaded, but also in DdRT; the loading can kinda switch over to the static/terminated leg of support; as the dynamic/adjusting leg stretches; thereby freeing up the force on the hitch enough to let it slide. SRT, doesn't have this alternative leg of support; so hitch can't unload and still support; so can't slide as smoothly and safely.
  24. slows em'dowm better'en cones. cones might not scratch pretty car if they runs over'em.
  25. i like a Schwab for backup over Kong; because both legs feed out 1 side. Otherwise; i go with a modified VT. i give 4 turn coil; then 2 braids; then 2 turns trapped by a Sailor Gripping Hitch (kinda close to Icicle) type strategy. Only that modified to a muenter; rather than a half hitch around those last 2 turns. i make the contraption in 3/8" flat Tenex(twin braid). Like the Icicle and Sailor Gripping; it gives easier re-lease and better self tending than Knut and TK IMLHO. i think 'my way' gives better self tending and release even. But; ye must have right length cord to suit/tuned. Too long lets more turns of coil pull out to braids. We want a clean classic 4 turns in Coil mechanics. ie Defining 1 turn as turn, 2 as round turn, 3 as double round turn and 4 as coil. These are not just increases in turns mechanically; like the eye says! More of a geometric/ not additive increase in controlling friction force. As we have the additive distance; but also (multiplied by) the real key concept of folding the force(s) back in on itself; in what i think is an elusive (to the eye so counter-intuitive) "Mayhem Effect". In these things i define knotting forces as a microcosm of rigging forces; so look to the maginified view of rigging forces to see the knotting forces better. If no friction on straight parts of rig(and ignoring elasticity); the straight parts give no change/can be dropped out of the equation; to leave the bends, turns and frictions of a compact rig/ knot as the base/ distilled formulaes/mechanics. OK, i'm done, safe to come out now!

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.