TreeSpyder

As we can see, this depends on specific uses, strategies, styles and strength needed for a particular 'trick'. So, within a specific range of equipment, should have a range of fitting ropes etc. to task. In this working environment, durability is high on my list. Also, hi tensile, low elasticity is not always best. Elasticity can be preloaded with tension, and/or used to dampen impact forces to supports during rigging. If you have 10k line, and same braid and materials in a 20k line(or as same, 10k line used in pulley on load); you will get more elasticity, at a given loading; from the 10k line. And, if the 10k line is reeved thru a pulley that is on the load, each leg is loaded to the same percentage of tensile strength as 20k line with load on it(without pulley). So, over kill on tensile to load ratio can give less use able line if elasticity is valued in scenario. Then, too can load cheaper lines, and wear them on lighter loading, save more expensive

That would be 12:1. The stepped/ tiered config for pulleys, limits movement more; than if pulling dual pulleys or pulleys to drop eyes of other pulleys etc. For tree force levels, and not using tree as anchor, would place a support leveraged higher in equal / opposite direction of rig pull to another anchor. Can '2 Hand' rig for more input force. Anchor parts like green webbing would be leveraged less if 'teepee' was not so flat, or even to 2 eyes of end of sling. If pulling to upward (or downward) angle, would make sure at least 1 turn of green webbing was seated to spar/ anchor in front and not to loading pull. In end when goes to tie off, should seize fast where doesn't spread apart, then give to Half Hitches. Halves have better/more contact area than fig.8 as stop. 1st half should seat square to stop, then 2nd same behind to keep first fair and square. Fig.8 looks like better stop, and does have more weight. But bulk of fig.8 is not where it wo8uld be stop, and the stop side has open side as leads to fig.8 bulk. When he is binding the spreads apart, this is giving more tightness, and would finish doing that, rather than leave spread. Nice barefoot walk though!

Can make multiple loops, use as Bend, Bend several lines to 1. Use as 'handle' for bend point to leverage line after line is hyper tightened later (to tighten down, sweat more line, guide in lowering etc.). We all used more loaded on loop for 3.1 etc., inline pull, but should realize this is a compromise from optimal pull perpendicular to line on loop and not to greater loading than legs of line on either side of eye.

i tie as in first vid; only make a Round Turn around hand to make slipknot, to then thread the Bitter End and finally invert to make familiar rabbit around tree form. Then give tuck for Yosemite Tie off type finish. The slip knot method is / was a recommended trick to know for getting self rescued off of ledge you are hanging on. If lucky, someone could lower lie down form overhead cliff or helicopter. While holding on with one hand, proposed survivor would draw line around then=m selves with freed hand, and roll to form slip knot, feed bitter end around Standing and thread thru Slip Knot, and back to self, and pinch together. At this pint could pull line, have line pulled, maybe even fall, and if still pinch Bitter back to self as reeves thru slip knot inverting to bowline. could be alright. i find it easier to throw bight of line around target, for more weight in lighter line. Usually then place Half Hitch to run inline with spar, then another flip around target for running bowline as pre-scribed. Running Bowline should pull perpendicular to spar, with inline back of loop as stop. Stop/ back of loop not inline when pull is not perpendicular to host/ spar. For pairallell to spar / inline to spar pull, should precede with half hitch (or marl) so that the stop of the Half Hitch is leg going to Running Bowline, so primary stop is inline with primary load pull on Standing. Rope only resists/ supports on inline axis (and only in tension direction). This is why ABoK breaks inline and perpendicular hitches to spar/rail into 2 separate chapters, the configurations are similar enough that these chapters are consecutive, but separate just the same. DBY walk thru slip knot method of tyng DBY Olde Behind Back gif, showing ease of tie DBY

It is kinda a VT with an Sailor's Gripping finish to make self tending to me. i would try straight Sailor's Gripping Hitch or Icicle, to get similair effect, without he 'play' of VT.

Thanx, meant to include this Spanish Burton 'Family'

Pulley systems have been called "flexible levers" (even though they are inline devices that increase powers arithmetically, not geometrically). But, we can get more out of them like non-flexible levers) by compounding them (for a more geometric increase) and by making them more of a closed system (in some of the parts). The Spanish Burton 'Family' does this with separate lines, but shared sheaves. So isn't so much like one whole system compounding on another, for the separate systems aren't necessarily discernible as fully separate systems on their own. This (below) goes on to show more than 21xEffort; so that a 100#Man with a 50#ArmPull has the potential to pull 3700#(for edumacational and discussion purposes only-Do Not Try this at Home-okay, who's 1st?) MyTreeLessons.Com/Flash/pulley21xRig.Swf As any potential thus, it will not be reached, for as the multipliers of the full efficiencies of the pulleys compounds, so does the their reciprocal inefficiencies become compounded. Like 7 sheaves in series will drop you down to about 75% of potential, even if the sheaves are a fairly high efficiency like 95% each. For, there is no 100% efficiency at a point of conversion(pulley, pivot etc.), or there would be perpetual motion. So, at a conversion point, everything is broken into it's efficiency and it's reciprocal inefficiency (as cost of the conversion).

Ummmmmm; seems it must be an acquired taste at that!

A small grease smear on back of steering wheel can go a long way too. In college we would catch someone in the shower, quietly block shower door, and in concert flush all toilets, turn on all cold water in sinks and showers. Gets real hot with no escape but to dive at faucet and turn off. Of course if ya catch'em with shamppoo streming down face... Take out sink trap so as one runs water they get soaked. Fill manilla envelope with shaving cream, slide under locked door and stomp on envelope.. Short out kill switch, so saw won't start. Send new guy for a sky hook 1 day, then next day try to get him to go get a gravity bender (rope) for speedline. Gravity bender because it changes the path of fall, he won't go and is wrong again.. Lineburger cheeze in heating vents. Change some druggies cell fone so that when s/he speed dials connection, s/he gets cop shop, pretty soberizing effect.... We paid for a 'male stripper' to come dance in a bar for buddy's birthday one year. Just gave some guy in gay bar money to come and do it (my buddy said they were real polite there, everyone came up and offered to push in his stool and he didn't even want to sit down!). rock in hubcap place board over desk drawyer, flip over, and reinstall Remove hinge pins from cabinet door,a nd then close it up jsut right, best if it has a magnetic latch for a little more hold. Take a large cable tie (like a plastic wire tie only larger and longer); then clamp it around drive shaft and make sure it will only slaps metal frame. Makes a lotta racket as shaft spins and no harm. Once't i even then placed one on axle to do same, then another inside wheel. Guy stopped 3 different times, very ticked off; was all ways a butt hole to everyone, so very, very deserving.

The Cow Hitch is a Girth/Choke Hitch (a double Girth a Prussick), only a Cow has pull only on 1 leg. This means that the Cow has more load on that 1 leg, but also means the other leg could be weaker. But, then also the 'free' leg/ bitters should be locked down. so, a series of slings or lines could make up an anchor, best one taking the brunt of the loading impacts. If removing tree anyway, i'd make some small humboldts to bed sling/line in. As far as a Clove giving less deformity/ strength loss to the Standing (Tension) Part, on a larger mount; i'd say that could be true; iff the pull was perpendicular (as opposed to inline pull on tree etc.) to the host/mount/spar. The Cow or Girth, can give varying amount of deformity by how the unloaded leg(s) bend the Standing Tension Part. In that model, the choke bending the fully loaded Standing would be less loaded than the Standing itself (up to 120 degrees bend, like pulling backwards against the choke could actually make the Standing Tension Half the choke...). But, pulls on a Clove or Cow up a tree/ inline(as opposed to perpendicular pull on tree etc.) with tree/spar/mount could very well make Clove give more deformity/weakness(?). A timber with 7 turns is good, but i think half that many as well; the primary thing would more be that part of the Bitter/Tail be trapped at a convex position opposite the loading, just past halfway. Visualizing that the front of the works pulls away, and this portion pinches into (the host mount/spar/tree). Just past halfway places that trapping where it would lock into the rise at highest / most equal and opposite tension on any rotation. A fair linear round turn/spiral before is very good. 7 turns probably a little overdone, but more fairly places at least part of the bitters in this best area (just past opposite of the initiating pull). Baby Holding Bus shows turns as friction to reduce force flowing into Bitters, Then trap that reduced force under as much force as possible to secure. i've done as Bodean, like the branch collar as dawging for sling to lock into. i do kinda like a Cow with a Round Turn rather than a Turn around the Standing, then lock the tail down too. A girth/Choke is likewise better with Round Turn rather than simple Turn around Standing(s). 1 Turn bends/deforms/weakens but more Turn(s) can restabilize some of that deformity (if correctly applied) like a Double or Triple Noose/Scaffold is sooooo much better than a simple Noose. If using a Whoopie, i like primary loading on adjustable leg, so that primary load is on a different point each time. Then, might extend off fixed end other sling to then choke back the Whoopie loaded eye, and then adjust Whoopie, so now have larger Whoopie. Of curse if the other sling is stronger, it can take brunt of loading. But a good size Whoopie (thick with adjustmeant range of 3'), with a 3', 6',9' etc. Spanset (type) slings as add-ons can take ya far (large range of adjustability with 3' range of adjustability and 3' incremeants in slings...).

The stick trick werks cuz you are making a 90deg. angle with 2 sides equal(to your arm length). Thus a 45degree angle, that you then extend the legs of to the height of tree and length from tree (equal). i think it comes out better measuring (with stick on side) to ear, to offset this a little bit. That can work because to properly sight the 45deg to the top of the tree, your eye would have to be at the far corner (your armpit). But,this is best for vertical tree. Ones with forward lean, you'll be sighting for height from ground, to determine height from stump. Thus the greater the forward lean, the greater the error. For leaning forward (or backwierd) very much it can be better to look at tree not from front, but from side, with stick. Stand away from it, raise up stick at arm's length, tip of stick sighted with top and mark hinge area with thumb on stick. Then, keeping thumb lined up with cut, tilt top to site where it should fall by siting and keeping same angles as originally. The 45deg angle is also key in other 'home remedies' of bending over and looking through legs, siting in pan of water etc.

i keep trying to say it better; for it is how everything works. 2legs of pull place 2x Load at each pulley everytime. But not all of it pulls on the pulley, some pulls across the pulley to the other leg of line. So it is just a question of how much of the 2xLoad potential; pull on the pulley. The cosine scale is the Zer0 to 1 percentage type scaling we use. So can take Zer0 or all of full potential of forces(2x Load). So, 2x Load X Cosine; gives this percentage of the total force of 2 legs of line on the pulley. We don't use sine, because that is across force. The 2 legs of line will center the sling between them with their across force, because the sling doesn't resist there sideways (sine of angle) forces. If the sling doesn't resist sideways force, it doesn't incur the forces. So half the spread is how far off the lines to self centering pulley are from the all important inline with the sling we must calculate from. So we take 2x Load X cosine of half the spread of legs of line to the pulley to get force on pulley.

i like trees; but think others are more apathetic and less all-true-istic, not even real-istic! .

Rope arcs happen inside of knots whar ya can't see'em. But, they also happen in rigging. Because a pulley has 2 legs of loaded line on it, it has a potential loading of 2x Load. But, because the sling/rope holding the pulley, only resists inline not perpendicular tensions, we only need to calculate the inline forces of the rope angle from the sling X 2 legs. This means that we take 2x Load X cosine of half the spread. And we are done. This also explains a pulley with weight on a horizontal clothesline, or leveraging tighter by swigging or sweating purchases. For, this is the same math, in reverse, we are now just initiating force by the bend, not the end, into the system. Thus; if we place 175 degree spread in angle box, we will see very little load on pulley; so pulley has leverage over the line at that angle. Thus, if we anchor leg and pull bend, we can incite those kind's of forces. The calculator crunches by radians, so calcs by hand in degrees all the way through might be slightly different. For code testers/breakers i allowed negative/floating load weights, but not angles< Zer0 nor > 180. Numbers are assuming that preserving all forces, none lost to frictions elastic distance/stretch etc. calcPulleyLoadings.swf

A few things to remember is that you can't just beat force; you pay or equate for every drop of it; it is never created nor destroyed; just transferred etc. Also, that the minimum loading/base is the load itself, and this is at inline. Anything not inline is leveraged. Wood, is basically inflexible. 100# inline at 10' or 20' is the same. But, at any angle the distance makes a difference. What we do; is calculate maximum/potential loading; which is perpendicular/90 degrees. So, 100# at inline is 100#; but it's maximum potential is the 100# X the distance 10' or 20' etc. For, all angles less than 90/full potential; we multiply the cosine of the angle X the potential. The cosine of 90 is 1. So, full potential X 1 gives full potential. The cosine of lesser angle is less than 1. Like, .5 for 30 degrees. So, 20' X 100# gives 2000'#s potential X .5 gives the leverage at 30 degrees. (notice that at 1/3 tilt, half the leverage potential is achieved!). Also, at 30 degrees, the 20' spar reaches 10' from it's base! Flexibles like rope is different. You have to take the cosecant or 1/sin of the angle X the loading. Length doesn't matter. The angle is the leg from inline. So, if suspending a weight between 2 poles; we cut the load in half(2 supports); then calculate the angle of each leg from inline/ minimal loading. So, in a perfectly centered weight between 2 poles; that would be an angle of half the spread of the lines. If 1 is higher than the other and or not centered weight; then we calculate half the load per leg; of angle from inline(given poles are higher than the load). If, the load is on a pulley; then the lines could equalize; if not, they could carry different tensions; but would try to equalize by adjusting their angles to overall minimum loading. Impacting is different. It is weight X speed (distance over time). So, i try to pretension lines; then tip load slowly over into them; then give wide face and try to make the load itself, give final pretension to the line as it tips on hinge. i also favor slowly pulling over the load with rope etc. to force a stronger hinge; as well as acting as final pretightening. Note the line only tightens more as the load's hitchpoint moves away from the support point. Sometimes i will even make the load tip left against a right support, so the line tightens up so much; it hen pulls the load right; as i also adjust the backcut to allow. this gives a tighter line, than if ya just tipped load to the right many times. Hope this helped. Some call the cosine of 90 Zer0; but ultimately we mean to find at what point leveraged fully = 1 (0 or 90 depending on how ya look at it). Then work the angles of part of a multiplier of 1 to find the leverage and reach of the spar at a given angle. Also, 100# on the end of a 20' spar is a perfect example. Real life is length from hinge as pivot to the Center of Gravity X the weight. -KC