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defender 110 rear axle


jrose
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I had heard that the axle casing had to be spread, and was told that diff replacement/rebuild in a salisbury isn't that hard its just not for the faint hearted. I edited my post as you were far more knowledgeable.

 

mine leaked oil and all i did was replace the drive flange and seal with genuine parts cost about 50 quid and blew the breather out with airline. I agree with what you say unless a disc conversion is gained as well buying a salisbury axle is money most probably wasted!

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Hi all,

 

Apologies if this is in the wrong bit, I wasn't sure whether to put this in the classifieds or not but thought this would get more answers!

 

Does anyone by any chance have or know where I can aquire a salisbury rear axle for a old Landy 110 in the south west? I'm getting quite desperate, mine is getting worse and worse leaking EP90 out where the propshaft joins, due to play in the diff I am told.

 

I'm willing to travel a reasonable distance, must be in good condition.

 

cheers,

Joe

 

Is the Diff "Whining" like "zingzingzingzing" or do you have a "shimy" in the back end when driving?

 

Does it "Clonk" when you take off?

 

Get under it with the wheels chocked hand brake off and gearbox in neautral twist the rear prop shaft back and forwards.You should have a little play but not too much.

 

If you problem is just a leaky seal at the prop shaft,you do not need a new Diff.You need a new seal.

 

Check the Diff Oil while you are there.Unscrew the plug,pop you little finger inside,if you can feel it just under the hole its fine.If its more than an inch down,fill it up till it runs out the hole.The once the excess has run out.Put the plug back in.

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thanks for all the replies everyone, I'm still learning about this mechanics thing! But my local garage is very friendly, they've had our families cars for years and he is happy to offer advice to me on how to do a job myself for free, or let me hang around and watch and learn...

 

It is leaking oil at the front, where the prop joins. I tried replacing the leather seal with a geniune land rover one as I was told to avoid the cheap ones, and it's still leaking oil. So at the moment I'm topping it up with EP90 once a week or so, and was told to get a secondhand axle.

 

In answer to the questions - it's drum brakes, there is sometimes but not always a clonk when taking off, no whining or zingzinging. Can you further explain a shimy please Mike, I'm not sure what this means?

 

So is there such a thing as a garage that specializes in diffs/axles? I'll have to see if there's such a place anywhere nearby and seek their advice...

 

cheers,

Joe

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If you are new to mechanics you could have easily damaged the seal putting it in.Buy another and get another garage to do it.IF they said you need a new Diff because its leaking Oil,then Frankly they are mental.

 

Shimmy,is like the back end of the wagon is moving side to side a little bit and rapidly.You would likely know its happening.

 

If their is a "Clonk" when you take off,it could be the Ball Joint on the top of the rear syspension or one of your UJ's (universal joints on the Prop Shafts).

 

Put the Handbrake on and get your mate to shove the back of the Wagon,trying to move the Body but the wheels stay still.Have a Look at the Ball joint near the top of the Diff (its been a while since I had a defender) it might be worn and is Clonking a bit.

 

 

If thats not the Clonk,get underneath and grease the UJ's and grease anything else with grease nipples.

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Seriously- if you have no clonking or banging whe you take up drive, and you are just leaking oil from the front then at worst you need to remove the prop from the axle (four 9/16th nut/bolts), then not only replace the seal, but also the flange . These jobs can be done with the axle on the car, and the parts should come to under £50. Quite often the flange gets a groove worn in it where the seal has been rubbing, so a new seal wont seal it.

Like Mike says- mental!

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  • 3 weeks later...

I had a clonk as I drove off on my 110 or changed gear and was told its either the A frame ball joint or maybe even the rear half shafts/flanges. The rear diff was unlikely on the Salisbury axle as its usually bomb proof. On checking further it turned out to be a worn transfer box, so that was replaced together with the gearbox where the gears were a bit loose. It was only £300 all in and solved the problem.

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I have to wholeheartedly agree with others. The Salisbury is a solid thing and if all you're saying is you have an oil leak from your diff then thats just a standard Landrover thing. Its a really cheap job parts wise. Definitely replace the flange (cheap) as well as the seal as a worn flange will wear the new seal. Very (very) often this seal is incorrectly fit which causes it to fail very soon.....here's a link from the tech archive of one of the landy forums (this may be standard LR rear axle and not Salisbury but method the same) Replacing the diff pinion oil seal. - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

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To confirm the other posts - I can't understand how oil leaking could be pinned on the diff. Making a godawful noise or great big lumps of metal falling off are symptoms of diff failure. Clonks are usually the gearbox (expensive) or suspension bushes (cheap as long as you have a big socket set). When you changed the seal, did you check the flange for wear?

 

About the only thing that breaks in those axles is halfshafts, and even then they don't leak oil!

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... It is leaking oil at the front, where the prop joins. I tried replacing the leather seal with a geniune land rover one as I was told to avoid the cheap ones, and it's still leaking oil. ...

 

If the axle is old enough to have had a leather pinion oil seal then it is certainly old enough for the pinion to be worn where the seal runs.

 

Fit a new oil seal and a new pinion (which, as posted above, are very inexpensive and easy to fit) and I'll wager the leak will stop.

 

Salisbury axles are scarce (hence expensive second-hand) and also very strong. If your only problem is an oil leak, your axle will be fine.

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