felling leaning trees

[Pete Mctree]

A fast back-cut is not always enough. Especially free-grained timbers of a larger diameter, eg willow alder ash some poplars etc. Not saying it can't be done, but additional measures such as increased depth of face cut, reduction of the hingewood length at each side etc. Alternativley you could research the Coos bay cut. Great in some situations but has no directional properties

[Gray]

if we're on about leaning forwards i usualy take the heart out before my back cut, and if i were topping sometimes i'll cut either side of the hinge about 4-5% of the girth instead so theres no ripping of the bark. i havent ever done both though seems a little dangerous. for heavy limbs when you can't get far enough out (no higher anchor point) i usually box cut( bottom,furthest side ,nearest side then top) shake a bit but come down clean and level.

[RobRainford]

A fast back-cut is not always enough. Especially free-grained timbers of a larger diameter, eg willow alder ash some poplars etc. Not saying it can't be done, but additional measures such as increased depth of face cut, reduction of the hingewood length at each side etc. Alternativley you could research the Coos bay cut. Great in some situations but has no directional properties

 

Is that like the traveller special? Straight in from the back?

 

I understand cutting fast isn't always an option. Each situation is different so you treat it as is

[skyhuck]

What's wrong with a nice quick back cut? Powerful saw and small bar. I dropped a number of leaning willows on a site clearance with a conventional back cut. There must have been 25 degree lean on some. 660 and 20" bar with sharp sharp chain, the cut is done before the tree starts to quiver!

 

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What happens if you hit some steel or the saw unexpectedly plays up?????????

[felixthelogchopper]

What happens if you hit some steel or the saw unexpectedly plays up?????????

 

I think we all know the answer to that one, Dave

[Mortimer Firewood]

YEPyour in the brown stuff:001_smile:

[Mortimer Firewood]

Ive been doing loads of big leaning trees recently and no matter which cut or what species i always put an 8 t ratchet a couple of feet above my felling cuts its never been needed but give me a bit more security as all of them have been right on the edge of a river .

[blazer]

As above - not my idea I saw it on an Aussie video a while ago, swop over some 50mm ratchet straps so you have a hook one end and an eye the other, and at least x2 wraps (with the metal bit at the back , it may swing around 180 deg if it fails, this way it will go forwards not into your teeth)

 

I have used a couple of methods - the 'dog-tooth' is good but leave plenty at the back or it may fail early. I try to get one side cut out so for the last bit I only need to use the saw tip on one side only.

 

I have made one up that works well I called it the 'T-cut'. Basicly: cut hinge - plunge behind hinge leaving a 2+" strip of wood, cut each side to leave a central 2 or 3" strip at rightangles to the hinge (hence the T) and slowly cut into the T untill the tree talks to you - then go for a walk. The last remaining strip of the T acts as a rope with fibres breaking under tension, acting as a time delay fuse - giving you plenty of time (if you are lucky).

Ok it rips out some fibres into the truck but it's safe:thumbup1:

[Crazy Cutter]

What's wrong with a nice quick back cut? Powerful saw and small bar. I dropped a number of leaning willows on a site clearance with a conventional back cut. There must have been 25 degree lean on some. 660 and 20" bar with sharp sharp chain, the cut is done before the tree starts to quiver!

 

I can see the methodology in your method, although I prefer to use the bore and release.

 

Sometimes the stump breaks in two as you can't finish the cut quick enough, can be scary!

[richyrich]

that doesnt sound very reassuring:001_rolleyes:

 

If your saw is getting jammed i dont think you are doing it right.

 

triangular cuts,sounds like all you are doing is leaving a very thin hinge perpendicular to the felling cut.

 

 

not a narrow hinge cos i would not cut right up to the gob cut ( so its not a proper triangle- more a polygon, or something:confused1:). only really used on willows and occasional poplar:thumbup: