What's on your bench today?

[Rich2484]

Impulse line.

 

Blocked filter or channel in carb.

[Adamam]

The 254xp that I've been (very slowly/lazily) restoring to health is turning into a hilarious lesson in terms of penny wise, pound foolish.

 

Remove carb; one gasket disintegrates. Order new gasket (and carb kit).

 

Install new carb kit, install carb. The other gasket disintegrates.

 

Exhaust mount split; order mount.

 

Mount arrives. Install. Exhaust gasket splits.

 

Exhaust hex screw strips.

 

E to the T to the C.

 

Egg on my face/lesson learned/etc.

[spudulike]

Rained off today so had chance to get a proper look at the old 242.

 

Fired pretty much straight away, started well and ran for 2/3 seconds then died. Pulled and pulled and wouldn't fire again. Took starter cover off and cleaned and refitted the ignition (properly gungy) and is definitely producing what looks a good spark and seems to be consisitent.

 

Fairly sure it's not pulling fuel through (when pulled the plug out after it wouldn't start, it was dry too). Checked filter in the tank and that seemed clean. Fuel pipe looks to be OK. Did notite when pulling the engine over on the bench that there was a squelching noise coming from near the carb though, but not a noise I'd expect to hear.

 

I've never had need to dip into a saw carb (fortunately) but am wondering if it could be a worn diaphragm?

 

It that's a possibility, how easy are diaphragm kits to fit? Have worked on bike carbs before in the past - so aren't completely ham fisted (well maybe a little )

 

Am open to other suggestions too

 

Whipped exhaust off and the piston looks to be in good fettle and compression feels as good as any other 242.

 

My thoughts - check the breather or at least loosen the fuel cap and try to start as this sounds a bit like a blocked breather.

 

If it isn't that then the metering arm may be a little low and need raising or the diaphragm may have gone baggy and causing the same effect.

 

Always worth checking the gauze filter in the carb, always a favourite fault!

[spudulike]

Just started on a 372XP that was purchased secondhand and the owner wanted a good checkover and health check before use.

 

The saw is a 2008 model but to be honest, looks like it has done 6 months work with labels still present on the underside.

 

Pulled the covers off - cylinder is original and not Chinese so that is a good sign. Pulled out the spark plug and the exhaust side bore looks clean and sound.

 

He was saying the clutch was making a ting tinging noise when the chain is being pulled round - traced back ot the oiler arm knocking the drum lightly so no issues.

 

Compression is a healthy 145psi - pretty common to read a little lower on the big saws - took the exhaust off and you can still clearly see the machining marks on the front of the piston with no damage:thumbup:

 

The vac test proved the crank seals are holding vacuum and the pressure test shows the crank seals are holding pressure as is the carb boot, decomp valve and impulse line so in all, no problems so far and a machine in almost new condition. These checks are critical to a two stroke that unlike a fourstroke, use the crankcase void to hold and move fuel/oil vapour in to the combustion chamber - leaks = seized engine!

 

Took the covers off the carb, a little sawdust above the pumping gasket where it has entered the breather but nothing of consequence.

 

Just need to check the fuel line and filter, the breather has been done, then run the saw up and tach it. I will check the oiler and lube the sprocket bearing but all looks fine.

[Ashes_Firewood]

Cheers Spud. Looks like I've got a good one! Looking forward to using it. Going to get a 20" bar and a 24" bar for it I think. Should give me enough options and then I've got my Husky 440 for snedding and any smaller stuff

 

Just out interest I notice Husqvarna say you can run a 28" bar on the 372... anyone done it?

[swinny]

Cheers Spud. Looks like I've got a good one! Looking forward to using it. Going to get a 20" bar and a 24" bar for it I think. Should give me enough options and then I've got my Husky 440 for snedding and any smaller stuff

 

Just out interest I notice Husqvarna say you can run a 28" bar on the 372... anyone done it?

 

How much did you give for it if you don't mind me asking? Was it up near carlisle? Or some where lol

 

I saw someone selling some saws on ebay and contacted them, but cannot just remember where he was. He had a 372xp and 346's etc for sale

[spudulike]

How much did you give for it if you don't mind me asking? Was it up near carlisle? Or some where lol

 

I saw someone selling some saws on ebay and contacted them, but cannot just remember where he was. He had a 372xp and 346's etc for sale

 

I know how much it was but isn't for me to say but the saw is a very sound one in damn near original condition. Looks like it has done a few months work with just a light coating of dirt in a few areas.

 

If I wanted a saw this size and needed a saw for business, I would have bought this one:thumbup:

[Ashes_Firewood]

I'll PM you swinny but it was in South Cumbria and yeah he had a couple of other saws for sale as he had stopped doing treework. He said it hadn't done much work and turns out he was right

[MR TREEBUS]

Here is whats on my bench today:

 

 

 

 

 

 

decided to treat my Dolmar 6400 to a nice new NWP big bore cylinder and piston

which will take it up to 85cc :thumbup:

Will run it in tomorrow!!

[wisewood]

The racing on the short bar and not on the long one is almost definitely caused by the short bar having less friction and spinning where the large one is stoping the chain spinning - the route cause will be either the idle is too fast or their is twine/crud around the clutch/sprocket bearing, crank shaft, sprocket bearing - a worn clutch spring is also possible.

 

Give the clutch area a good old dowsing with WD40, then squirt a bit of oil on it to lube the sprocket bearing and try it again. It is possible the clutch spring is a bit saggy and that can be a prime cause for the chain spinning when the idle is set correctly.

 

Try this before doing anything else!

 

Right, I removed the sprocket and clutch assembly and gave it a damn good clean, and washed the air filter in soapy water.

Got the saw warm on a full tank and it was only just beginning to creep at idle(about 5 mm every 5 secs, as opposed to 20mm every 3 secs before the clean) so I tweeked the idle/throttle screw a tad just to slow it enough to cease creeping. Doesn't seem to have affected performance so will leave it at that. Thanks spud:thumbup1:

Si