What's on your bench today?

[TIMON]

Not sure I follow that, the failure is the engine mount bolts coming loose, the earth point for the kill switch is on the top mount so that stops working. Arb types are clever so use the choke to kill the saw and the next step is the engine gets VERY loose. Sharpening the saw wouldn't help......making sure the mount bolts are tight as soon as the kill switch fails is sensible!

Thanks for this info... the kill switch on ours stopped working a while back and yes... we use the choke to stop it.
Hopefully I'll get to strip it down this weekend and it only needs tightening up. I'll have to dig out the magnifying glass...

[spudulike]

Just pop the clutch off and the cover that covers the oil pump - held on with a screw to the top front and clipped to the other casing parts and then just check the two large mount bolts top and bottom. It is the top one that acts as the kill switch earth.

[TIMON]

Thanks. [emoji106]

[Jackalope]

Hi All,

Varmints have been busy and I'm now 1 primer bulb short of a functional 560. 

Are they difficult to replace, are there any tricks or mistakes not to make?!

 

And does anyone have one kicking about handy?

 

Cheers

[Stretchsaws]

Quiet day for chainsaws. Got an MS 271 in with bogging issues and a MS 391 in for a service and bits n bobs. All good fun.

 

[Sveriges]

2 hours ago, Jackalope said:

Hi All,

Varmints have been busy and I'm now 1 primer bulb short of a functional 560. 

Are they difficult to replace, are there any tricks or mistakes not to make?!

 

And does anyone have one kicking about handy?

 

Cheers

Loosen the airbox off . Ease it out of its rubber mounts which will make it easier to get to the two carb screws. This allows A bit more movement. You can completely  remove it from the saw if you prefer but there’s no need really.  Remove the two fuel lines going to the primer. The primer just unclips you will need to just prise it a little. New one pushes into place. Then just refit. Should only take 5-10 mins (maybe shouldn’t say that sorry everyone) 

 

Note when the carb screws are out make sure you get the choke control spring (sits next to the red control lever) back correctly otherwise it won’t work properly. You will know if it’s wrong as it just won’t feel right when you try to put it on choke. There’s no need to disconnect the auto tune connectors but if you do remember to plug the black one back in as otherwise it won’t stop  

[bmp01]

Going through a rather tired MS171 which came to me as a box of bits, nothing very exciting. Reason for posting - noisy crank bearing led me to remove and disassemble the bearing, idle curiosity.

 

Picture is worth a look.

 

Look at the ball sat on the blutak - the outer layer has disintegrated. Poor quality steel I imagine. Bearing is Chinese,  with C4 clearance, i thought these were C3 clearance so might be an aftermarket item ?

 

bmp01

 

Edited October 17, 2017 by bmp01

[spudulike]

That doesn't look nice.

 

My day was starting to work on a number of saws, finding that they needed spares, going as far as I could then on with the next one - three on the trot.....hate it when I can't finish the job!

[peatff]

5 hours ago, Jackalope said:

Hi All,

Varmints have been busy and I'm now 1 primer bulb short of a functional 560. 

Are they difficult to replace, are there any tricks or mistakes not to make?!

 

And does anyone have one kicking about handy?

 

Cheers

The primer bulb is directional. Make sure you plug it in the right way round it pulls through the carb. 

[Richard Thompson]

This morning I replaced the brake band on a husky 450 and started replacing the brake handle on my ms391 but found I need more parts deeper in the saw. Only a pin for the spring/lever behind the brake linkage but a PITA as I'm not near the dealership anytime soon