What's on your bench today?

[spudulike]

Careful Steve, train too many and you won't have any work!

 

It is one thing to see and another to do as you well know:thumbup:

 

Some make stuff look easy - one reason for that, they are good at it!

[adw]

The gearbox is from the Husqvarna 325P4/ P5, it ran two bar lenghts and a 3/8 050 low profile chain, 12" bar 501959245 10" 501959240, same bars as were fitted to the 338XPT, the oil hole will seem to be in the wrong place, however the oil feeds through the upper bar adjuster hole, into the side cover and fed round into the lower bar oil hole.

[adw]

How true!

[felixthelogchopper]

The gearbox is from the Husqvarna 325P4/ P5, it ran two bar lenghts and a 3/8 050 low profile chain, 12" bar 501959245 10" 501959240, same bars as were fitted to the 338XPT, the oil hole will seem to be in the wrong place, however the oil feeds through the upper bar adjuster hole, into the side cover and fed round into the lower bar oil hole.

 

Thanks!

[Wolfie]

Here today is a class on splitting a crankcase and removal of crank and bearings. This MS660 had partially seized, the machine was able to run and it's owner did which scoured the bore of the aluminium transfer and dumped it in the main bearings seriously knocking out the flywheel side one.

 

 

 

Washing the bottom end out didn't cure it and the only option is to fit new bearings so.....

 

 

 

A good selection of splitters and splitting tools is a good place to start and saves belting the saw with bigger and bigger mallets until something breaks!

 

 

 

I split the cases with my home made splitter, this one was relatively straight forward, just make sure ALL the bolts are removed and the dowels pushed half way out.

 

 

 

I then use the Husqvarna splitter which locates on either side of the main bearing and pushes the crank out cleanly. I could have used this on both sides but having stuck a broken 6mm drill through my thumb some time ago felt I should use it:blushing:

 

 

 

The main bearings are then pushed out with a suitable socket and the biggest G clamp you can lay your hands on - old English is best:thumbup:

 

 

 

This one went pretty smoothly, I have had some bearings stick on the crank and be almost impossible to shift!

 

 

A very useful tip Steve.

 

I'm struggling getting some old oil seals out. Can i just push the bearings and seal out together or is there a lip on the casing between them?

[Wolfie]

A very useful tip Steve.

 

I'm struggling getting some old oil seals out. Can i just push the bearings and seal out together or is there a lip on the casing between them?

 

 

Success!

Bearing are bigger than seals so found that you can if pushing seal through onto bearing

[Wolfie]

Next problem,

Trying to remove an outboard clutch from a 357 without success

 

Tried screw driver and mallet (reverse thread) with the piston stopped. Even tried making my own 3 pronged gismo.

 

It seems stuck solid - any suggestions?

[peatff]

It seems stuck solid - any suggestions?

[ATTACH]196875[/ATTACH]

 

Get mediaeval on it's ass

[WoodED]

Order the proper gizmo, and gentle with an impact wrench?

[spudulike]

A very useful tip Steve.

 

I'm struggling getting some old oil seals out. Can i just push the bearings and seal out together or is there a lip on the casing between them?

 

If they are the MS200 ones. use a sharp awl and lever them out, they can shatter so safety specs please:thumbup:

 

I used a double hooked seal extractor on this MS660! Easy with the crank removed.

 

I also have the Stihl tool which is pretty effective!