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spudulike

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Spud what about the pot should I buy a compression test and if so what model tester is good for

 

I use a Gunson one! I dont know if your dealer is a good one or not and if his diagnosis is right or not. Low compression may cause this issue you have, it could be the saw has seized, it may just be wear and tear.

 

I don't know how well set up you are to do this sort of work, if the saw has seized, it is always best to pressure and vacuum check the saw before rebuild, just to make sure the seals and rubber parts are good.

 

I have never written off an MS200 pot, they are usually salvageable and have repaired many in my time. The issue is if the saw has seized, once repaired, if the checks are not done, it may go again in a short while.

 

You may find that you do the work, spend a fair bit and still have a saw that isn't good - up to you what you do but if you want a quote - PM me.....not pushing for work but can see the way this may end up.....out of pocket and no working machine.:thumbdown:

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Why would you be doing that? shortening the spring will reduce greatly the stopping time of of the chain, if it even stops it at all, DONT DO IT.

 

Got a big un hear 🎣🎣🎣🎣🎣🎣🎣

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Is this the standard car thing? I've a lightly seized ms261 which I think was running weak so I could do with a few pointers to preeurising the engine to hunt for leaks.

 

Yes, it is the Gunson Hi Gauge, some car gauges use a schrader valve with a really heavy spring rate and these are totally unsuitable. The gunson one uses a very light sprung valve and works fine......unless you use high compression engines that tend to trash the valves - I converted mine to a presta valve as it works the same and purchased a shed load of them.

 

Always give the saw a few light pulls before going for it as it creates some pressure and protects the valve.

 

 

You CANT use this gauge to pressure/vac test engines, I use a bastardised Gunson Low Gauge and a Seeley brake testing gauge for this - one for each! You can buy off the shelf systems but are a bit more epensive!

 

Look up primary and secondary compression in two strokes and leak down tests, you really need to understand how these engines work and why you are doing these tests to do them correctly.

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I use a bastardised Gunson Low Gauge and a Seeley brake testing gauge for this - one for each! You can buy off the shelf systems but are a bit more epensive!

 

I was thinking of using the seeley radiator pressure tester, clamp over the exhaust and use the balloon thingy to seal the carb inlet, then look for pressure drop.

 

My thinking was that modern saws can never be leaned out on the car adjustments nowadays so there's either an air leak or a restriction in the fuel feed somewhere.

 

This is why I have only lashed out 10 quid on a set of rings, rather than replace pot and piston, until I find the cause of the problem

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Yes, it is the Gunson Hi Gauge, some car gauges use a schrader valve with a really heavy spring rate and these are totally unsuitable. The gunson one uses a very light sprung valve and works fine......unless you use high compression engines that tend to trash the valves - I converted mine to a presta valve as it works the same and purchased a shed load of them..

 

I've had my one out to play and yes it is the Gunson Hi Guage, so it's just a matter of taking the schrader out and putting the presta (aka high pressure bike valve) in with a converter?

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