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What's on your bench today?


spudulike

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Been wishing for one of these to come my way. Coupled with my Draper Expert 1/4 socket drive set prezzzie I'm chuffed.

 

But - no spark, presuming points behind flywheel - how to get into this thing - its really tightly packed in.

 

A service manual would make life easier. Any tips re: working with one of these would be appreciated.

 

Cheers folks

 

mikerecike-albums-mikespics-picture5882-20121230-155243.jpg

 

mikerecike-albums-mikespics-picture5881-20121230-155110.jpg

 

user manual

 

McCulloch Mac 130 Chainsaw Parts List

 

 

it's a while since i had one of these in bits they are a bit of a fiddle but can be sorted

 

it has 2 screws securing front handle on

the case splits just by the filler caps 2 screws 1 below top handle screw 1 at bottom of case

1 screw by stop switch

1 screw underneath

1 screw beneath air filter cover

remove rubber shroud/sealing ring behind air filter

remove screw from choke lever and pull choke lever off

drain fuel & oil

remove 2 screws from rear of top handle

locate wire linkage on end of throttle trigger and pry from slot

remove front cover to expose fuel tank on underneath there is a white plastic lug in a rectangular slot this is fuel connection to tank push this into saw

 

remove engine and tank as a unit

the oil connector is just pushed into a hole in the tank

 

 

i think this should help dismantling

andy

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user manual

 

McCulloch Mac 130 Chainsaw Parts List

 

 

it's a while since i had one of these in bits they are a bit of a fiddle but can be sorted

 

it has 2 screws securing front handle on

the case splits just by the filler caps 2 screws 1 below top handle screw 1 at bottom of case

1 screw by stop switch

1 screw underneath

1 screw beneath air filter cover

remove rubber shroud/sealing ring behind air filter

remove screw from choke lever and pull choke lever off

drain fuel & oil

remove 2 screws from rear of top handle

locate wire linkage on end of throttle trigger and pry from slot

remove front cover to expose fuel tank on underneath there is a white plastic lug in a rectangular slot this is fuel connection to tank push this into saw

 

remove engine and tank as a unit

the oil connector is just pushed into a hole in the tank

 

 

i think this should help dismantling

andy

 

Thanks a lot Andy. I'll let you know how I get on. It has no spark so I'm hoping can get away with cleaning the points.

Happy new year

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One of the seals had deposited its nitrile all over the bearing making it a bit notchy, sprayed carb cleaner on it to soften the grunge and then span it over and oiled it - negligible play and spins sweetly now.

 

Reducing the thickness of the base gasket will up the compression and give the saw some more torque:thumbup:

 

Compare a saw running 135psi and 150psi - that is the difference:biggrin:

 

cheers Spud -do you replace the original gasket with a home made thin gasket paper jobby?

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cheers Spud -do you replace the original gasket with a home made thin gasket paper jobby?

 

The original gasket on the Jonsered was a 2mm thick plastic looking thing - had to sand it down to half the thickness - strange old thing in this respect!

 

You can either fabricate another gasket or use gasket sealent without a gasket, just depends on what the squish measures and what you are aiming for.

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:001_tt2: back again but I fear with grave error unfortunately. Stripped my 345 to give it a clean and see what condition it was inside. Carb got a clean out the gauze filter was abit blocked causing it to run not at its full potential. Got that sorted. Compression check 160psi :thumbup:

Whilst filling up with oil I noticed it went out as quick as it went in, oil everywhere! Have I screwed one of the bolts too tight around the case somewhere to cause this spillage??

 

If I have is this something easily remedied or do I need new housing?

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Alvin. Did you remove any of the oiling gear when stripping it down?

 

Got a hilux to sort tomorrow. It ran dry due to a huge leak in the power steering box and the steering pump went dry. Now it's grinding like nuts when turning the wheel so new pump to fit and the front wheels are rubbing when on full lock so a bit of adjustment needed there.

 

Oh and adjusting any bump stops isn't really an option see picture below as to why. Although it has been fixed since the picture it's jacked right off the deck and got huge wheels on it. To be honest I actually don't like it the way it is and it's a hinderence IMO but then its not my truck. (Sorry dave)

image.jpg.1ad275c4e217e2d650ce3d41fa6d89c6.jpg

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:001_tt2: back again but I fear with grave error unfortunately. Stripped my 345 to give it a clean and see what condition it was inside. Carb got a clean out the gauze filter was abit blocked causing it to run not at its full potential. Got that sorted. Compression check 160psi :thumbup:

Whilst filling up with oil I noticed it went out as quick as it went in, oil everywhere! Have I screwed one of the bolts too tight around the case somewhere to cause this spillage??

 

If I have is this something easily remedied or do I need new housing?

 

I've ran a 345 for a few years and just refurbed one, I would need a bit more to go on than what you have given me.

 

Find out where it is losing oil and take a photo to get a few suggestions going!

 

You may have just not clamped the oil pump in place properly:confused1:

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