What's on your bench today?

[spudulike]

Another suggestion is to fit a much longer bolt and put a nut on the other side of the alloy casting to hold it in place!

[Will Heal]

Have you got the original bolt and cup washer for the brake handle. It was missing on my 036 and a replacement had been fitted with a plain washer. I bought a proper one and it was twice as long as it looked like it should be so there might still be some thread at the bottom of the hole in yours.

 

 

Checked, there is no thread left at all. Plus now I've drilled it out

[Will Heal]

I had this problem with a 260. If you have drilled the broken bit out carefully, you should be able to tap it to 5mm, get a new bolt and cup washer, knock out the bolt and drill the washer to 5mm. Fit 5mm bolt of same length. Sorted!

 

 

Could try this with what's left a the bottom of th 8mm hole I've drilled already, but don't have any taps

[Will Heal]

Another suggestion is to fit a much longer bolt and put a nut on the other side of the alloy casting to hold it in place!

 

 

I'm gonna try this first, then if not I'll google a helicoil

[Dinosaw]

If the new hole's 8mm, you could look for a bit of alloy tube to glue in as a sleeve and then use Spud's nut and bolt suggestion.

[Haironyourchest]

What about filling the hole with epoxy putty and screwing in the bolt into the putty before it cures? Maybe oil the thread first so it can be removed again? I would 'roughen up' the inside surface of the drilled-out hole first, so the plug of cured putty doesn't rotate or pull out. Maybe use a junior hacksaw blade to cut light channels in the walls to prevent rotation - if that makes sense? Those puttys are fierce strong, and theres no great strain on that side of the break is there?

Edited June 12, 2015 by Haironyourchest
misspelling

[Haironyourchest]

 

 

 

Three photos of the business end of my Stihl HT131 pole saw. I removed the head this afternoon, cut a strip out of a Lidle's Perlenbacher Weissbier can, and used it to sleeve the end of the shaft where it slots into the head.

 

The reason?

 

Couple years back the saw head took a wee whack, and cracked around where the screws make it tight to the shaft. Warrenty was not honoured and €400 for new head and shaft (shaft bearings were grinding as well)

 

Few months later my nasty Hecht strimmer did the same thing. The response to both incidents was "you overtightened the screws" but this was not so - I know how to not over tighten a screw....

 

So I got to thinking that maybe this head-to-shaft system that all our tools seem to use is not so hot - look at the 131 - theres a good few mm of travel before it tightens to the shaft. That must equate to constant tension in the metal, and aluminium does Not like to bend...

 

Is that big gap really necessary? I think not. With the sleeve fitted (around 2 wraps) it is just nice and snug, and only a little tension is needed to make good.

 

I'll use it away and see how it goes.....

[spudulike]

Had a Stihl MS441 in at the weekend, the saw was locked solid, the owner thought seized but my thoughts were it would be unusual as seized saws generally free up once cool.

 

Pulling on the starter wouldn't shift it so the next step was to strip off the cases to see what gave, the clutch cover came off and inside, a birds nest of noodles and the picture below.

 

It looks like the clutch and clutch drum had seen better days as the mating surfaces were worn significantly to the point that the clutch burst the drum and impacted the brake band totally destroying it.

 

I will fit a new clutch, drum, needle bearing, brake band and a new oiler as the arm was also buggered. The oiler looks OK despite being impacted and the top surface being badly abraded.

 

It should be up and running in due course:thumbup:

[TGB]

If you ignore basic maintenance & observation, it'll bite back in the future.

[spudulike]

If you ignore basic maintenance & observation, it'll bite back in the future.

 

Exactly what I said!