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spudulike

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Humour me Rich - go back to the earth wire where it joins the crimp connector that bolts to the top of the crankcase, hold the wire and pull on the connector, the wire often looks perfect, can measure out OK but the internal wire is fractured - you can normally tell as it is a bit limp just as it joins the connector - if you know what I mean:blushing:

 

Good luck bud

 

Ok smart arse.:001_tt2::lol::lol::lol:

 

Replaced wire and all working well. Hard to think about as there was continuaty there. The buzzer on the tester went off.

 

Even stripped it down to check the inside. All good. Always learning.:thumbup1:

 

Three ms260s in today.

 

And the first ride on in aswell. Also have to go out to a ride on as the owner can't get it started and it won't move either. So going out to that one.

 

And looks like a Massey 35x to work on aswell. Leaking front crank seal. And the cylinders need re lining,

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Could you recommend a supplier for hydrochloric acid (Muriatic acid). I require some to remove alloy transfer from a cylinder. Is there an easy found alternative for example brick cleaner. What sort of concentrate do you guys use? Cheers Ryan

 

Spirits of salts from the local hardware shop, if it smokes when you take the lid off, it is concentrated enough.

 

Car valeting suppliers sell steam cleaner de-scaler, this is HCl Hydrochloric acid and is cheap.

 

H-A

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Spirits of salts from the local hardware shop, if it smokes when you take the lid off, it is concentrated enough.

 

Car valeting suppliers sell steam cleaner de-scaler, this is HCl Hydrochloric acid and is cheap.

 

H-A

 

Brick and mortar cleaner - around 15% HCL does the job:thumbup:

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Ok smart arse.:001_tt2::lol::lol::lol:

Replaced wire and all working well. Hard to think about as there was continuaty there. The buzzer on the tester went off.

Even stripped it down to check the inside. All good. Always learning .:thumbup1:

QUOTE]

 

Nice that an old fart like me can still teach a young buck new tricks - file it for next time - saved you a new coil:thumbup:

 

Had a very tidy looking 395XP in, compression seemed low when the starter was yanked but not too bad when jerked over TDC. The plug looked a very ominous light grey graphite colour so knew what was coming:001_rolleyes:

 

A look down the plug hole and yup - a seizure so something wasnt right. Got the piston on order PDQ, Meteor of course - I then did a vac and pressure test, it had a significant leak and traced it back to the impulse line. A light pull on it and it came off in my hand with a bad split in it.

 

The cylinder was taken off - piston shagged, the bore had seen better days but cleaned up real well, it should make compression and lots of it when done.

 

Cost - well in total my repair will be around half what the OEM kit by itself would have cost and have no doubt it will be strong when done and give years of life.

DSCF1413.jpg.e20ef7469f1456825d76f398f0ae66b7.jpg

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Before.jpg.f53d1d3e8d6eec670c64633eb420a6d6.jpg

Impulse.jpg.5026fb394f8d098f19b8eed89e6fc038.jpg

Piston.jpg.e6655737c8ceef908002b8b97a1e37d1.jpg

Plug.jpg.a4884313732f3784cb3498e43a390927.jpg

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Ok smart arse.:001_tt2::lol::lol::lol:

Replaced wire and all working well. Hard to think about as there was continuaty there. The buzzer on the tester went off.

Even stripped it down to check the inside. All good. Always learning .:thumbup1:

QUOTE]

 

Nice that an old fart like me can still teach a young buck new tricks - file it for next time - saved you a new coil:thumbup:

 

Had a very tidy looking 395XP in, compression seemed low when the starter was yanked but not too bad when jerked over TDC. The plug looked a very ominous light grey graphite colour so knew what was coming:001_rolleyes:

 

A look down the plug hole and yup - a seizure so something wasnt right. Got the piston on order PDQ, Meteor of course - I then did a vac and pressure test, it had a significant leak and traced it back to the impulse line. A light pull on it and it came off in my hand with a bad split in it.

 

The cylinder was taken off - piston shagged, the bore had seen better days but cleaned up real well, it should make compression and lots of it when done.

 

Cost - well in total my repair will be around half what the OEM kit by itself would have cost and have no doubt it will be strong when done and give years of life.

 

Do you hone the cylinder or just wet and dry paper on them?

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Do you hone the cylinder or just wet and dry paper on them?

 

You can't really hone nicasil plated bores as the coating is too thin, best to just clean any aluminium piston residue off and rub them with some wet and dry with WD40 liberally applied.

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You can't really hone nicasil plated bores as the coating is too thin, best to just clean any aluminium piston residue off and rub them with some wet and dry with WD40 liberally applied.

 

Thought that, knew there was some kind of coating on them:thumbup1: thanks

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