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Charles Hey Arborist

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Everything posted by Charles Hey Arborist

  1. Charles Hey Arborist
    Anyone know anyone who sells them? Also after a long straight pole, about 14 foot long, 4" or so thick.
  2. Charles Hey Arborist
    Oaks the obvious choice but any others that are better? Cedar? Ash? Helping a friend do their house up and I suggested a real wood floor, would approx £20/m2 be about right? Thanks
  3. Charles Hey Arborist
    Trying to help a friend with this. Where's the best place to buy fence posts and panels at the best prices? 3" or 4" timber posts with 6'x6' panels? Is it acceptable to lay untreated oak sleepers direct onto flat/firm soil or is a base needed? Thanks
  4. Charles Hey Arborist
    Looking to buy a decent splitter, mainly for use in the yard but being able to use it on site would be a bonus. Not sure if I should go for something like a 13T petrol Thor, or invest in a tractor and get something more like a 18/20t. The cheaper end of the tractor market looks like a minefield, I don't have much experience with tractors. A loader would be handy though... Any input appreciated
  5. Charles Hey Arborist
    Tacho and cpc?
  6. Charles Hey Arborist
    That's the stuff I've used for about a year or so, and starting to see problems on saws that aren't used all the time... Where do you get the rapeseed peter? Thanks C
  7. Charles Hey Arborist
    Any of those available in the UK, and CE marked or whatever they have to be?
  8. Charles Hey Arborist
    This is what in referring to, first page http://m.petzl.com/sfc/servlet.shepherd/version/download/068w0000001OMx1AAG
  9. Charles Hey Arborist
    Thanks, I had a bit of a search, seems to be lots of different opinions... The cheap stuff I've been using is 100% rapeseed I think... I'll look into it more. C
  10. Charles Hey Arborist
    Ooooh that looks so shiny and nice. I thought it 'worked' but wasn't rated for use or something? Edit: I'm happy if I'm wrong I fancy a bit of online shopping for shiny bits tonight Will I need a shorter tether or honey bros one about right?
  11. Charles Hey Arborist
    I've used it for years. Cost isn't an issue if you think about your health and the environment. I use to use stihl bio plus, never had any issues. But I switched to a cheaper brand for the last year or so, and a few saws that have been left on the shelf for a couple months have ended up all gunked up and the chain won't move. Not investigated yet but one seems to not be oiling at all (bar over heats after couple of cuts) I want to keep using bio, is all bio the same or should I go back to the stihl one? Or should I do something like clean out oil tank and clean bar/chain on the saws that don't get used daily? Thanks C
  12. Charles Hey Arborist
    Thanks, still got the hitch climber on but will swap to this Monday! LOVING certain aspects, not having to isolate a branch with throw line, and not worry about changing friction. Love hand ascenders and foot ascenders make it so easy on my body. Can't quite get my head around the perfect way of doing re directs, retrieve able tip ties and combos of the 2. Especially without having to work down then go back to your anchor before going to the ground. I want HAAS, and hitch is behaving at the moment but a mechanical device would make me happier (wish zigzag or something could be Used)
  13. Charles Hey Arborist
    Thanks for all the replies. I don't like risking hedge cuttings through the chipper, so currently get given to a farmer who probably owns a box of matches... Just looking for a more sustainable/Eco friendly way of dealing with it, I don't think buying a shredder for a small arborist gang is worthwhile, so either hire one once a month or get a waste firm in with a big skip or something seems best. Thanks. C
  14. Charles Hey Arborist
    Doubt it would reduce weight much for pushing it about? The old tt126 you can, think it's 1 bolt per upright then they slide out. Not sure about new one sorry- ask the dealer?
  15. Charles Hey Arborist
    Can't find much info on it on the net but looks good to me. Looking into all sides this in my LV4 assignment today, very interesting. The point I find myself coming back to is: What is a branch attachment, and what is a fork attachment? Why didn't Duncan Slater differentiate between the 2?
  16. Charles Hey Arborist
    What do you do with rakings and hedge cuttings? Rent a skip to be kept in the yard? Rent a shredder? Own a shredder? Any other ideas? Thanks
  17. Charles Hey Arborist
    Assuming it's the same ECU as the tw150 I'd try the stress control bypass, then at least rounds it down to either an electrical stress control problem, or an engine/hydraulic one. Recent experience with my tw150 makes me think either relay (srb500 but make sure it's a Lucas or hella brand not a cheap one) can be got from TW dealers, anywhere online or local motor parts place. If not ECU, but try the relay first as it's probably that and it's much much cheaper...
  18. Charles Hey Arborist
    Any landy with a chassis cab is the easiest place to start so you don't have to change any body panels, especially good if it's already 3500kg, some are 3050kg which is a bit of a pain. 130s are more expensive but easier to keep the rear axle weight legal, especially if you have tool boxes. But tempting to put a big box on and fill it which would be well over weight. 3m3 is sensible I think. Other day was on an off road job and must have had 6m3 to drive across a wet field, was fine, but imagine it wouldn't have been nice at road speed! They're fine upto 60mph full to 3.5ton if they have decent suspension.
  19. Charles Hey Arborist
    As per other advise I'd check belts first, then maybe the flywheel speed sensor. Then assuming fuel filters are ok, I'd replace the relay, or see if it's a faulty ECU? (Just had to do my 2006 150 ECU apparently not uncommon on pre 2009 machines) There's a bypass in the stress control unit that bypasses the no stress- may help work out if the no stress or something else is at fault?
  20. Charles Hey Arborist
    Your PM box is full. I doubt my mate can help you out (as per details in your PM) but I will ask.
  21. Charles Hey Arborist
    I find a short one more powerful, and a 30" cut not 20", so run along the bottom with a short one then pick up a long one for the hard to reach bits! Also find getting a dead straight hedge easier with the longer blade, but maybe that's just practice.
  22. Charles Hey Arborist
    Sorry to sound rude, but maybe that's why you find it such hard work? I find short hedge cutters twice as fast as half as tiring on my upper body. Although I have to admit I bought an ELH about 3 months ago and never used it yet as the ground or laughed and said I was being a pansy...
  23. Charles Hey Arborist
    I liked it, any 230s in stock anywhere in the UK? Or are they all on a waiting list?
  24. Charles Hey Arborist
    Empty your PM box
  25. Charles Hey Arborist
    Thanks for all the replies. Not sure I like the look of the raptor, I'd never heard of them! But I'm willing to give anything a try. Also had a call from a mate about another 750kg machine that's worth a look. I do have my C+E, difficulty comes with other people driving my kit, much easier to find a 750kg driver! I can't make my mind up out of the following: 1 good all round chipper, something like a 8" road tow. Keep my tw150 750kg chipper for the small jobs and lads to drive, and 1 big one for big jobs where I'll be there anyway. Would LOVE a bandit from global. Or something that might give different options, maybe an 8" tracked machine. Get one of the modern 750kg chippers and wait for getting a bigger one... Most of my work is small domestic stuff, and should think at least 4days a week a 750kg chipper is all I need. But when those big jobs and conifer removals come in it feels far too slow. Tough decision! Thanks.

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